Medellín, Colombia

We left Salento for Pereira and then jumped on a bus to Medellín. Craig and I checked into our basement room at a hostel which I couldn't help but think looked like a prison cell, there was no natural light and the room featured a solo metal bunkbed. We met Carl at Burdo for pizza, the place was full to the brim with locals beginning their night out, dressed in glitzy clothes, they put our worn and slightly dirty backpacker outfits to shame. The decor was clearly designer and the food delicious, we were out of place definitely but enjoyed a special treat dinner.

The next day we met Jorge; a proud Medellín dwelling Colombian who we first met in Foz du Iguazu in Brazil. Jorge had offered to give us a guided tour of his home city when we eventually got to it and I can't believe that after all these many months we are finally here. The first order of the day was to pay a local technology shopping mall a visit in search of a new camera, but after a little browsing we found the prices to be out of our league. Jorge's help with translation was invaluable though and the trip helped us to narrow down exactly what camera we'd like to get as an exact replacement of our Canon 750d would be far too expensive, even on Amazon the price has increased since we bought it less than a year ago.

The Lake in the Botanical Garden of Medellín, Colombia

The Orchideorama in the Medellín Botanical Garden, Colombia

After, Jorge took us to his favourite spot in Medellín, the botanical gardens. As we glided to our stop on the overground metro the clouds gathered and the rain poured. We stopped for a minute but eventually braved it, running through puddles to the garden entrance. We decided to get lunch together at the garden café, the three of us opted for a local bean soup with rice and arepa which is a Colombian corn bread. Oh my goodness, the soup was delicious. Every time I think back to it my mouth waters, on the particularly cloudy and wet day that it was the soup warmed my soul, and that may sound like an exaggeration but it's not! We chatted about Colombia's troubled history and Medellín's unfortunate past life as the centre of Pablo Escobar's drug cartel but Jorge was keen to inform us of how the city and country has changed for the better. And in all honesty it's something that we could already see from our short time there, the city felt safe and welcoming. We wandered slowly around the gardens, the rain had eased making it a pleasurable walk.

Vibrant Flowers Doused in Rainwater at the Medellín Botanical Gardens in Colombia

We then took the metro to the cable car which is used as an everyday transport link for locals rather than just a tourist activity. The views over Medellín were fantastic and we got off to see the city from a viewpoint but this area in particular did feel a little unsafe so we hopped back on the cable car for a return ride. The bonus with local transport is that it's so incredibly cheap so a quick ride cost practically nothing. Once back on city level we walked to the Museum of Modern Art and saw lots of work; I found the delicate drawings of Jorge Marin to be particularly interesting and some of the paintings of Medellín born Débora Arango were of particularly hard hitting subject matter.

The Museum of Modern Art Medellín, Colombia

Jorge Marin at the Museum of Modern Art Medellín, Colombia

Our second to last stop of the day was to another viewpoint overlooking the city, this one we reached by bus. It was a row of local eateries serving Colombian comfort food, most of which wasn't vegetarian friendly. I had chocolate caliente con queso or hot chocolate with cheese which I was first introduced to in Salento but not brave enough to try. This time I went all in and it wasn't as strange a taste sensation as I was expecting. The heat from the drink caused the cheese to go gooey and somehow they complemented each other though I'm not sure I'll be putting cheddar in my Galaxy hot chocolate at home. The sun was setting and the distant street lamps flickered on, our hot drinks and arepa con queso (corn bread with cheese) were great company. Our final stop was at a bar inside a shopping mall where we all talked travel and hopefully convinced Jorge to plan a trip to Asia in the future. Our day had been jam packed with sights to see, local delicacies to taste and view points and art thrown in too. Without Jorge's guidance we wouldn't nearly have seen all that we did and had such a wonderful day, thank you Jorge!

Medellín's Cable Cars, Colombia

Overlooking Medellín at Night, Colombia

After our especially busy day with Jorge we spent the next day doing a whole lot of nothing. Our uneventful day allowed for some time to write for me but we also squeezed in a lovely lunch at a café a few doors down.

The following day we met Carl and took him to the botanical gardens, in all honesty I mostly wanted another taste of the delicious soup. Thankfully the weather had improved from our last visit so we were able to visit the small butterfly house and stop to watch the turtles and birds at the lake. Craig and I had tacos for dinner after spending ages looking for an Indian restaurant that turned out to be closed. Luckily all was forgotten when we visited The Chocolate House where we ate desserts to die for.

On our final day we decided to do a Pablo Escobar tour. Craig and Carl were both intent on doing one, especially as they are both fans of the series Narcos. I was a little apprehensive as I wanted our trip to Medellín to be about the city as it is now which is far removed from its cartel past. I tagged along anyway as I didn't want a day alone in the prison-like hotel room. We visited Escobar's simple grave and a building left derelict that was once under siege with Escobar's family inside. Our driver for the day was one of Escobar's drivers, a large man who spoke only Spanish. Our guide translated his words, he told us that if he were to go back in time he would live an honest life. That a life of crime wasn't worth the money that it brought to him and that he is filled with regret. The tour ended at one of Pablo Escobar's houses where we met his 71 year old brother Roberto. The house is used purely as a museum now and contains a motorbike given to Pablo by Frank Sinatra and a jet ski used in a James Bond film. A huge bulletproof car with cracked windows was in the garage next to a little blue car Pablo originally used to smuggle drugs in to Colombia. Bullet holes were present in the walls of the house, rumour has it that money is still buried there and so numerous people have turned up looking for it and failed to find anything. The tour ended with a cup of Colombian coffee and a few words from Roberto which our guide translated and we each had a photograph taken with him. As he wrapped his arm around my waist for the picture I felt torn. Here was an elderly man, polite and well mannered who smiled when I said hola, but I remembered the stories I had heard from our guide, of all the innocent people murdered on Pablo's order in his fight against the government.

I was glad that I went along on the tour. Learning about the past can help to appreciate the present, the history of Pablo Escobar is a complicated and fascinating one. Our guide informed us that the money made from the tour goes towards a charity run by Roberto to fund AIDS research which I hope is true. I left Medellín thinking about all the positives of the city and how it is now, a thriving and beautiful place full of passionate locals, an exceptional art gallery and the best bean soup I've ever tasted.

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Salento and the Cocora Valley, Colombia

The three of us left Bogotá and made our way to the countryside town of Salento. By the time we arrived after a taxi, a coach and a minibus the light was fading. We found a hostel with a pretty central garden and Craig managed to negotiate a good price for all of us. Once rested we walked up the steep hill to the towns square and found a small local restaurant. Craig and I each had a vegetarian platter and it was truly delicious. A large plate of rice and beans, egg and avocado, fried peppers and onions with tomato relish and a crispy bread made us very happy especially after another day of travel.

Tall Wax Palms in the Cocora Valley, Colombia

Riding in the Cocora Valley, Colombia

The next morning we had a really tasty breakfast at the hostel, we could understand why the hostel price had been high as there was so much choice including cereal; a luxury we haven't seen too much of in South America. We walked to the main square and found a spot in a jeep to take us to the Cocora Valley a short drive away. The plan was to walk the trail through the valley but after a few minutes Carl said that it looked like a great place to go horse riding as there was a separate bridleway. We asked the man at the park entrance gate who made a call and ten minutes later three horses arrived with a wrangler. The horses were in great condition, something that I insist on before riding anywhere. The horses responded to the wranglers whistles which was incredible to witness, they'd turn or stop based on different whistle combinations.

Carl and Craig in the Cocora Valley, Colombia

Grey and Bay; the Three of Us Riding in the Cocora Valley, Colombia

The trail started fairly flat but gradually as we ascended through the valley the terrain became rocky and more challenging. In the distance were extremely tall wax palm trees rising above the canopy silhouetted against the white cloud. We crossed the river several times, sometimes having to duck under rickety looking rope bridges that the walkers would have to use. The horses hooves clattered on the rocks and splashed water all around. Every now and again the horses would jostle for front position, making me jump as they momentarily sped up along the rough ground. At a few points on the hack I felt out of my depth, the ride was more challenging than I'd experienced before but I tried to remain as confident as possible breathing deeply at the particularly difficult sections. We made it to the end destination in the dense forest and tied the horses to a tree while we walked on foot up a pathway to a wooden shack and hummingbird garden. Included in our park entry price was a drink so we opted for a hot chocolate not realising it included a chunk of cheese too. We were told to put the cheese in the hot chocolate as its a Colombian tradition but it seemed odd so I enjoyed mine separately. We watched the hummingbirds, there were several varieties, each one looked totally different to the other. Without our DSLR we weren't able to capture any especially good photos but the scenery from the shack was beautiful. I always mentally note the variety of plants, trees and leaf shapes I see as inspiration for future drawings. We returned to the horses and rode back; down the valley, over rocks, through rivers and onto the open trail. With just minutes to go rain started to spit spot and so the wrangler whistled and the three horses began to canter up the hill in an effort to return to the stables before the downpour. The horses were home and dry but we weren't, we waited for the downpour to desist to no avail so we made a break for it to the jeep stand. Suddenly we noticed dozens of walkers all arriving to catch a jeep and we all knew we'd have to battle it out for a place. A jeep arrived and a huge group swarmed around it claiming it as theirs as they had a bus to catch later that evening. A second jeep arrived and we decided to stand up at the back and cling on for dear life. The rain was pouring but despite getting drenched the ride was fun and felt adventurous. In the evening we ate dinner at Brunch a quirky place with writing all over the walls.

In the Butterfly House, Colombia  

The following day; was my 29th birthday. The lady working at the hostel must have spotted the date in my passport at check in and surprised me with a stack of birthday pancakes. After packing up our bags we set about getting to the botanical gardens which turned out to be a difficult task. Once finally there we learned that the entry fee was actually pretty expensive although when Craig mentioned that it was my birthday I was given a complimentary ticket. The gardens were also by guide only which seemed unusual and so the leisurely stroll I had imagined for my birthday would not be happening.

In the Botanical Garden, Colombia

In the Botanical Garden, Colombia

We were led around the garden which was more of a well maintained jungle and saw a huge owl perched on a branch in the trees. We climbed to the top of a rickety metal tower to see views of the treetops and butterfly shaped butterfly house which we also visited. One of the butterflies kept flying at Carl's face which Craig and I found hilarious and we managed to entice one onto our finger. We left the gardens by bus and made it back to Salento where I called my mum for a chat which was lovely. On our last backpacking trip five years ago we were in Fiji with no wifi or phone service and I remember feeling so sad that I couldn't speak to my mum. We picked up our bags and walked down the road to a peaceful location where we'd booked a private room for a couple of nights overlooking fields, forest and horses. We went out for dinner and then drinks at a tiny bar with memorabilia all over the walls and ceiling and were recognised by a couple who remembered seeing us on a walk in Chile.

Little Coffee Seedlings in the Cocora Valley, Colombia

Coffee Plants Sheltered by Banana Trees in the Cocora Valley, Colombia

We spent the next day learning about coffee as the region is famous for it. We donned little wicker baskets tied to our hip and went out picking coffee beans, we then crushed them and watched as they were sorted by quality. The workers came at sat down for their lunch, wearing overalls covered in mud. They work so hard for such little cash but you wouldn't catch them complaining. At the end of the tour we were given a cup of pure, fresh, aromatic coffee to taste, it certainly wasn't your average Nescafé.

Freshly Picked Coffee in Baskets in the Cocora Valley, Colombia

Crushed, Dried and Sorted Coffee in the Cocora Valley, Colombia

The landscape around the coffee farm was lush and green, as is everywhere in the Cocora valley. We jumped in a jeep back to Salento, this time I managed to nab the front seat and spent the afternoon swaying gently in the hammocks with a peaceful view of the garden and birds.

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Ipiales and Bogotá, Colombia

Las Lajas in Ipiales, Colombia

A new country, a new month and a fresh start. Leaving the frustrations of Ecuador behind us we began our Colombian adventure in Ipiales, a border town and home to nearby Las Lajas; a church built on the side of a cliff and over a valley. We caught a colectivo (a shared taxi) to the sanctuary and walked down the slope to the church. It was a hot and sunny day, the early hour meant that we had the area to ourselves and we relished the peace. As we walked down we noticed little inscriptions carved into the wall and in memoriam plaques, little clusters of bright flowers broke up the grey stone. The church was magnificent, perched on a bridge over the valley and seemingly clinging to one side of the cliff. The detail on the church was of a gothic style and along the bridge there were statues of angels holding instruments, trombone included. Craig walked to a nearby viewpoint while I sat in the warm sun watching tiny birds flutter. In the afternoon we booked our coach to Bogotá, Colombia's capital. The 22 hour journey meant that we'd skip a few noteworthy towns along the way but we were keen to travel to the north of the country and spend the majority of our time there.

Flowers at Las Lajas, Colombia

Memoriam Plaques at Las Lajas, Colombia

After a long and uncomfortable overnight journey we arrived in Bogotá feeling groggy. The twisted roads wound around tiny villages, cliff edges and roadside food stalls causing some passengers to be sick. The situation wasn't helped by the drivers refusal to turn down the blaring music. Our hostel was based in La Candelaria, seemingly miles from the bus station. We struggled finding the correct bus but after asking locals managed to board the correct one. The heavy traffic meant it took ages to reach our district, we jumped off and proceeded to walk away from the chaos and into a visibly more artistic neighbourhood. Our hostel named Bella Vista was a cute place, tucked down an alley with locals and travellers alike selling jewellery and hippie merchandise on the street. After checking into our six bed dorm we went walking and found a local place to get some food. We attempted to find camera shops to buy a replacement DSLR but had no luck. In the evening Craig joined in with hostel-made cocktails while I attempted to help a Canadian girl learn a little basic Spanish before retreating to a quiet corner to pet the resident German Shepherd and do some journal writing.

The next morning we joined a very popular free graffiti tour, it was the biggest group we've ever seen or been part of. Our guide named Carlos was excellent and extremely knowledgable in the city's political history and the impact that that has had on the street art. The artists use their craft to comment on the country's leaders and its involvement in the notorious cartels. We learned of the tragedy of local homeless men being abducted, tortured and killed; they were presented as 'guerillas' and the killers were praised and given a monetary reward by the government, this act was represented in paint on the city's walls. The stories we heard were both heartbreaking and fascinating, the tour had been the best that we'd experienced in all of South America.

Street Art in our Grafitti Tour in Bogotá, Colombia

Street Art in our Grafitti Tour in Bogotá, Colombia

For lunch we popped into a Canadian fast food place selling poutine; French fries slathered in gravy and melted cheese. It was certainly a guilty pleasure but a welcome break from the similar fare that we'd been eating for the past several months. We met our buddy Carl after lunch who'd also just arrived in the city and we all took the cable car up to Monserrate Mountain which overlooks Bogotá and the miles around. The views were breathtaking, we sat by the church and watched the light change before exploring and enjoying a cake and a hot chocolate. As we descended the sun was setting which cast a vibrant orange glow over the buildings below.

At the Top of Monserrate Mountain, Bogotá  

At the Top of Monseratte Mountain, Bogotá  

Craig and I spent the next morning at the free Museo Botero named after Colombia's most famous artist. Botero paints his subject matter in a very particular way, every person he paints is made somewhat plumper, even his still life's seem chubbier than real life. His most famous painting is probably a recreation of Mona Lisa rendered in his signature style. The museum also houses impressionist work and sculpture as well as modern pieces. Craig's energy started to wane thanks to hunger so we left the galleries and met Carl at the square and had another helping of poutine before walking to Símon Bolívars house and garden.

Bolívars a Garden in Bogotá, Colombia

Sat in Bolívars Garden in Botogá, Colombia

I really enjoyed the gardens, there were narrow cobbled stone paths alongside beds bursting with all manner of plant life. The house itself was small and quaint, Craig and Carl were most interested in a famous sword that was at one point supposedly stolen by drug lord Pablo Escobar's cartel. A replica of the sword was on display but the original is said to be in Venezuela. Afterwards we squeezed in a visit to Museo del Oro, Bogotá's famous gold museum. The museum houses some of the finest examples of art made from gold; statuettes, fine jewellery and masks. The collection was in a wonderfully modern building with a basement level devoted to changing exhibitions. At the time of our visit we saw local handcrafted textiles. In the evening we ate at a burger restaurant next to an open fire and then popped to a cafe next door where a local live band were playing. The cafe was sweet and characterful, the waitresses were wearing puffy and colourful skirts while the men wore smart suits. We each enjoyed a drink while watching the band play, clapping the loudest at the end of each song.

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