El Calafate and El Chaltén, Argentina

We'd been waiting to get here for a long time, this area is home to Perito Moreno one of the worlds most impressive glaciers, Mount Fitz Roy, vibrant blue lakes and open skies. We stopped in El Calafate for a couple of nights, our hostel was like a big wooden cabin with cosy beds and friendly people. 

Most travel to El Calafate to see Perito Moreno Glacier and we were no exception. The following day we took a bus to the glacier and went for a walk along the boardwalks. The glacier was breathtaking. The ice glowed blue and every now and again huge chunks would fall crashing into the water below with a mighty thunder. As we walked the weather started to turn and so we retreated to a cafe to warm ourselves with a hot chocolate before taking one last look at the glacier and jumping back on the coach. 

The Glaciar Face

Perito Moreno Glacier

We spent the next day leisurely wandering around the quaint town. After booking our coach to El Chaltén we walked to the nature reserve and watched the flamingos on the lake. 

Mountains, Lake, Famingos 

Flamingos on the Lake

The following day we packed our bags and caught the coach to El Chaltén, a relatively short drive away. As we got closer the landscape changed dramatically, we were faced with majestic mountain views. We had an obligatory stop at the rangers office where we were all given advice about the national park before walking across town to our little blue hostel. We decided to make the most of the clear weather and went on a late walk to a nearby waterfall, it didn't take long and was an easy stroll. We were rewarded with lovely views along the way and the waterfall was a pretty spot. 

Laced Up

Views from the Walk

November 1st, two months travelling today! It was going to be a big day, we were up early to do the Laguna de los Tres walk to see Mount Fitz Roy. We'd been told that the walk wasn't too strenuous but that the last kilometre was a killer, it would be over 20 kilometres in total (10 there and 10 back). With our walking boots on we left the hostel and made our way down the road to the start of the hike. The first section was uphill and already felt like a struggle. We continued on passing beautiful scenery as we went. The walk was an interesting one, through woodland, past lakes, over rickety little bridges and sandy paths. As we walked we noticed little signs telling us how far we had come; 1/10 then 2/10 until finally 9/10, the dreaded last kilometre was before us. What started as a steep trail that stretched the legs soon became a tiring scramble. Despite the whipping wind I felt like I was burning up and had to remove layers of clothes. I was amazed at how some people whizzed up the path, the sound of their trekking poles tapping along the rocks became a distant sound as I was slowly moving up, step by step. Eventually we could see the snow and just over the ridge a moody Mount Fitz Roy stood before us. The wind was so powerful, I was nearly knocked off my feet a few times and had to huddle by a rock. We ate our picnic lunch surrounded by such grandeur before attempting to take a few photos. After, we started the long walk back, my knees were not happy on the way down. 

Walk the Plank

Reaching Fitz Roy

After a couple of slips we made it to the bottom of the 1km stretch and decided to treat ourselves to some biscuits by the refugio, we watched birds in the trees and the other hikers as they started their walk up the steep trail. After a few minutes we began to walk again, we had 9 kilometres before us back the way we had come. By the last couple of kilometres I was nearly in tears, the strain on my legs and particularly my knees felt like too much to bear. As the finish line approached I felt such relief and couldn't wait to take off my heavy boots at the hostel. 

Bird Watching

We Made It! 

The next morning; ouch! My legs ached and my cold had reappeared with a vengeance. We decided to take it easy and wandered down the road to a cute café named Mathilda for treats, we didn't do much else all day.  

After our rest day we were feeling fit enough to go for a walk but the weather had other ideas. El Chaltén's main street had became a wind tunnel and huge downpours of rain scattered throughout the day. We did a very short walk to a condor viewpoint and saw excellent views of the town. The delights of Mathilda were calling so we popped in again for warming hot drinks and cake. I'm going to miss dulce de leche so much when I leave South America. 

November 4th, our anniversary. Not just any anniversary though, we've been together for 10 years, a whole decade. With the weather still not playing ball we went for a fairly short walk to Cerro Torre viewpoint passing a waterfall on the way. Somehow I managed to hit my head on a branch and the relentless rain meant we got absolutely drenched. After a couple of hours out and about we returned to the hostel to dry off then made a quick dash to a vegetarian restaurant for our celebratory dinner. It was delicious and worth the fact that we each spent a whole days budget on it! 

Ten Years! 

Walking back from Cerro Torre Viewpoint

The next day we left El Chaltén and headed back to El Calafate. Our journey from El Calafate to 'end of the world' Ushuaia awaited. 

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Puerto Madryn, Argentina

After another big overnight journey we made it to Puerto Madryn. Despite the tiredness we walked to our hostel and after a tea and coffee ventured out for a walk along the seafront to the site of the Welsh settlements. The weather was a complete surprise, blue skies and high temperatures, vastly different to our time in Bariloche. 

The next day we woke early to do a tour of Peninsula Valdés. We saw so many animals. From the minibus window we watched guanacos (similar to llamas and alpacas) and a rhea and chick crossing the road. Our first stop was to see huge elephant seals lazing on the sand, we also saw a sea lion having a slow swim in the ocean. On another stop we saw the cutest little Magellanic penguins napping in their burrows. After an impromptu stop to watch mare from the window and a quick armadillo sighting we made our way to our boat trip to hopefully spot whales.

Penguins on Pensinsula Valdés

Guanaco

We were so lucky as we spotted several southern right whales, one as it breached. We also witnessed a mother and calf gently swimming by the boat, I'll never get over how beautiful and majestic these creatures are. 

Southern Right Whale

Bottoms Up! 

The following day was a relaxed one, we spent the evening chatting to fellow Brits George and Rosie, swapping travel stories and laughing a lot until the early hours. 

As we didn't have any plans for the next day, we were invited to join George and Rosie on a road trip to see a huge penguin colony at Punta Tombo. The drive was a little long through quite desolate landscape but it felt so great to have the freedom to drive where we wanted and George and Rosie were excellent company. 

Landing Bird

Fresh From A Swim

We arrived at the colony and were overwhelmed by the amount of penguins, they were everywhere! Walking on the pathways, dozing in their burrows and generally milling around making noise and mess! It was a joy to see so many of them, particularly the ones swimming in the ocean. 

Do Not Touch! 

Modest Penguin

The following couple of days were spent deliberating about what to do next, going for walks along the beach and watching the sunset from the pier. We still weren't feeling 100% and so a little down time was much appreciated. While Craig got some rest I spent hours drawing in the hostel kitchen, eating apples with an ocean view. Our next stop would be El Calafate, home to Los Glacieres National Park and where we'd finally see some real wild Patagonian landscapes.  

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Bariloche, Argentina

I love Bariloche. I reckon I could live here, easily. The town is full of chocolate shops and the landscapes here are out of this world. If you've ever visited the Lake District in the U.K. and loved it, then you'd adore it here. We're currently hanging out in our lodge-style hostel waiting for our coach later today. 

While here we've managed to do some great walks. Unfortunately the weather and colds (first me, now Craig) have prevented us from getting out as much as we'd have liked but we're happy to have done what we have.

Our first walk took as round Cello Llao Llao where we had a picnic on a secluded beach, walked through forest, watched wild woodpeckers, ate snacks overlooking the mountain ranges and hiked to the top of Cello Llao Llao for panoramic views. 

Craig at Llao Llao

At the top of Cerro Llao Llao

Our second walk was to a waterfall where we befriended a beautiful white dog we named Ghost, she walked with us all day and really felt like ours. Besides chasing off the birds and the occasional excited jump she was a joy and we were really sad to leave her behind. The waterfall was pretty and the forest was very atmospheric thanks to the rain and low cloud. 

Forest

Me and Ghost

We were meant to do a big walk to Refugio Frey but had to cancel due to the weather so instead we drank artisan hot chocolates then hiked to the top of Cello Campanario which offered amazing views of the lakes, mountains and forests.  

Cello Campnario Views

At the top of Cerro Campanario

If it weren't for wanting to catch the end of the whale watching season in Puerto Madryn then we'd probably stay here even longer. We booked three nights and stayed a week, the longest we've stayed in one place on this trip so far. We will definitely be coming back.  

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