Lima, Peru

We were doing something a little different in Lima. When Craig first mentioned to his friend and work colleague Franjo that we were travelling to Peru he immediately offered up his mothers home for us to stay in when we got to Lima. We felt a little weird about this, would Franjo's mum really want two strangers staying in her home? We didn't want to put her out but Franjo insisted, saying that our room was made up and that she'd even been shopping for vegetarian food for us. We met Rosalia outside her apartment after a very long coach journey, she didn't speak English and our Spanish is atrocious despite the lessons in Bolivia. We embraced and managed to get by on limited vocabulary, her welcome was so warm and friendly. She ushered us in and poured two glasses of delicious juice, a Peruvian speciality called chicha morada made with purple corn. Rosalia made us a quick supper which we were so thankful for as after our long journey we were hungry. We met George, Rosalia's husband who spoke English very well and who we enjoyed a lovely conversation with until bedtime.

Paragliders over the Lima Coast, Peru

The Lima Coastline, Peru

The next morning we were treated to an amazing breakfast. Rosalia had made us each a huge fresh smoothie, a pot of coffee was brewing and there were fresh fruits on the table. She then brought out plates of eggs, avocado and toast for us to enjoy. We felt thoroughly spoilt. After breakfast, Rosalia drove us into the city centre and booked us both on an afternoon open top bus tour of the city which she insisted was her treat. We then drove to the coast and walked around a free photography exhibition and watched paragliders soar above us. Rosalia drove us back to the apartment where her lovely assistant made us huge portions of pesto spaghetti before driving us back into the city for our open top bus tour.

The tour was a fun and relaxed way of seeing the city. We sat back and enjoyed views of the city streets and the hustle and bustle. We wound our way to the coast and were regaled with a tale about a monk jumping from a cliff, in the distance a man in a brown robe jumped and the coach gasped. As we drew closer we watched as the man effortlessly clambered up the cliff face and walked towards our coach where we applauded and each gave him a small tip in appreciation of his reenactment. In the evening Rosalia took us to a light and water show where fountains and lights dance in correlation to music. A myriad of rainbow colours graced the park as children ran riot and guards told people off for sitting on the grass. We walked past numerous flower stalls to a parrilla restaurant where we had a local dinner. Obviously our plates were void of meat so we enjoyed grilled potatoes, corn and salad. Rosalia was friends with the 'griller in chief' so when we came to pay the bill had been taken care of. We were beginning to wonder just how we could repay the generous hospitality shown to us, we couldn't even treat her to dinner!

Light and Lasers at the Water Fountain Show in Lima, Peru

Rainbow Colours at the Water Fountain Show in Lima, Peru

The next day we met our buddy Carl and did a 'diy' walking tour of the historic sights. We walked through plazas, past colourful buildings and antique shops. We held our noses in the meat and fish section of the market and we strolled through vibrant Chinatown looking out for our Chinese birth year emblems on the floor. In the evening back at the apartment George cracked open a bottle of Peruvian pisco, a stong local spirit. The four of us toasted and took a shot, the clear liquor burned the back of my throat but left a pleasant after taste.

Beautiful Buildings on Our DIY Walking Tour of Lima, Peru

Stained Glass Inside a Church in Lima, Peru

The next day George took us to MATE the Mario Testino Gallery which I'd been hoping to see while we were in Lima. There was a mix of high fashion photography, celebrity portraits and heady party scenes featuring famous models. A highlight of the gallery was the Peruvian room which featured large format photographs of Peruvian women in traditional dress and men dressed in costumes. Even the detailed carpet matched the patterns and bright colours in the photographs. The final room that we visited had been devoted to Lady Diana and included a selection of beautiful photographs taken just months before her death. Included was a replica of a dress worn in some of the portraits. Lady Diana's softly focused features and bright smile were particularly moving to see. Around the corner was a local tavern which we popped into. George brought a round of drinks, and then another, and another. By the end Craig had tasted every variety of Cusqueña lager, his favourite being the negra. When we got back to the apartment George made us a huge bowl of rice and vegetables cooked in the Chifa style which is a Chinese/Peruvian fusion. It was delicious and as with every portion we've been fed absolutely huge. Our coach to Huaraz was leaving in the evening and so we said our goodbyes to our wonderful and generous hosts. We were so glad that we decided to stay with George and Rosalia as we wouldn't have experienced the city of Lima in the same way. It confirmed our belief that Peruvian people are among the kindest and most generous in South America.

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Nazca, Peru

Nazca; a town in the Peruvian desert with one big draw, the mysterious Nazca lines.

We took a comfortable overnight coach from Cusco to Nazca which arrived in the early morning. On board the coach we met Carl; a Swedish guy travelling the world without flying. His route and method of travel was fascinating; from Europe all the way to Rio de Janeiro by cargo ship stopping at various ports along the way. We went out for breakfast together, Carl told us about an ancient cemetery close by called Chauchilla Necropolis where you can see Nazcan mummies in open graves. It sounded creepy. Our visit to Nazca was solely to see the Nazca lines and we weren't aware of any other sights so we were intrigued.

The Nazcan Desert, Peru

Landscape surrounding the Nazca Cemetery 

Our hostel manger organised a car and driver for us; we picked another guy up on the way, funnily enough someone from our Machu Picchu tour group. We drove out into the arid desert, along tan coloured dusty roads. The desert is a dry place that sees barely any rain, as with many places on our journey the heat was exhausting. We pulled up and paid a small entrance fee. All I could see were a few shelters dotted about the flat landscape and some pathways outlined with rocks. I was preparing myself, Carl had said that he'd seen a documentary about the mummies which had been the stuff of nightmares. I didn't know what to expect. We walked up to an open grave sheltered from the sun with a makeshift wooden structure and grassy roof. The mummies were sat upright, skeletal legs crossed with skin still intact in places and long dreadlocked hair. Their jaws were open in an expression of horror and long matted hair gathered in a heap on the floor. Embellished cloth hung from the bones and inside the graves were preserved pottery and food including corn. The remarkable fact is that these mummies are over 1000 years old; I found this fact hard to reconcile in my head. More than 1000 years old and still displaying soft tissue and hair. The atmosphere has preserved the bodies incredibly and some research after visiting taught me that certain rituals helped to lessen decay including coating the deceased with resin and drying techniques.

We walked by each grave; along the paths were scattered human bones. The graves had been heavily plundered by locals looking to make money from any valuables to be found, bones were removed and left in disarray throughout the area. Luckily government protection has kept grave robbers at bay for many years and conservationists have replaced as many bodies as possible in their original resting places.

In the end I didn't find the cemetery to be creepy. I found it truly astonishing that these ancient people have been preserved and glad that their history can live on. Many people have heard about the Nazca lines, but not many think about the civilisation of people that created the spectacle or that lived in the area and predate the Incan and Mayan people.

Nazca Landscape from the Plane

Nazcan Landscape from the Plane

The next morning we woke up early to catch our short flight over the Nazca lines. We decided to fly early as there's less turbulence in the morning and we'd heard stories of people becoming very ill as the small plane banks left and right. We arrived at the tiny airport and were weighed, we then waited a few minutes before being called up. We'd be flying with two pilots and three other passengers. We were placed in the plane by our weight, Craig was seated at the front and I was at the back with two seats to myself. We put on our retro looking green headphones so that we could hear the pilots commentary. Contrary to reports we'd heard about safety we felt like we were in good hands, the two pilots were extremely professional. We sped along the runway and were off!

Green Headphones 

The landscape was overwhelmingly brown, dusty and flat. There were a few hills not too far away which provided some much welcome greenery to the desert. We flew over many of the lines and biomorphs which are the lines in animal shapes. It was incredible to see these patterns and creatures in the landscape made over a thousand years ago and subject to such mystery. We learned that the lines were made by removing the reddish brown top layer of dirt revealing the lighter colour earth underneath. Some of the biomorphs created include a hummingbird, spider, and a monkey with a perfectly spiralled tail. These were my favourites of the lines. There is also a human figure referred to as 'the astronaut' due to a shape around the head resembling a helmet. This could be one of the reasons why there is a conspiracy that the lines were alien-made and not man made, how would a civilisation over 1000 years old know what an astronaut looked like? The crazy theories are what give this amazing sight intrigue although I think it's amazing enough to imagine the Nazca people using simple methods to create such wonders that they wouldn't have been able to quite see properly from the ground.

The Monkey in Nazca, Peru

The Astronaut at Nazca, Peru

The pilots swirled the plane around so we could all see each of the patterns and biomorphs, I snapped away on the camera but also made sure to really look as some of them blend easily into the landscape. The 30 minute flight was coming to an end and so we headed back to the airport filled with excitement that we had witnessed one of Earths most intriguing and mysterious wonders. Motion sickness had not surfaced one bit for me thanks to a tablet I had taken prior to the flight and so it had been a completely enjoyable experience and one of the highlights of our trip so far.

The Hummingbird at Nazca, Peru 

A Sense of Scale; The Lizard, The Tree and The Hands with the Watchtower and Road

We got chatting to an Aussie guy from our flight and all went out for lunch together. I had a plate of rice and beans with a fried egg and sweet plantain, the beginning of my love for a cuisine found typically in parts of the Americas. In the afternoon we picked up our bags and caught the bus to Huacachina an oasis in the middle of sand dunes. The journey was fairly short and we passed by the Nazca lines watchtower on the way. After a short taxi ride from the bus station to Huacachina we checked in and then met Carl for dinner who had arrived the day before. Huacachina had a travellers vibe to it and thanks to the weekend was bustling. The warm air made walking at night a joy and we were looking forward to a couple of days of downtime.

Desert Oasis of Huacachina, Peru

The Streets of Huacachina, Peru

The following day Craig and I enjoyed lunch together before he went to try sand boarding for the first time. As a keen skateboarder in his teens he was excited to try the sport which is similar to snowboarding but apparently slightly more difficult. I enjoyed a peaceful afternoon of writing. Craig returned sweaty and covered in sand top to toe. We watched GoPro footage of his attempts and I was very impressed, he was a natural. From the footage the dunes looked very high so I was quite glad that I sat this activity out as I think I would have been too scared to slide over the edge and I definitely would have spent more time on my bum than on my feet.

The Oasis of Huacachina, Peru

The next day we checked out of our pricey room and moved over the road to the hotel Carl was staying at as there was a pool and relaxing sun lounge area. We had a day by the pool and went out for dinner together, besides that it was blissfully uneventful. The next day we managed to jump on a coach leaving that minute to Lima where Craig and I would be staying with a local family for a few days.

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Machu Picchu, Peru

Magnificent Machu Picchu, Peru

Sitting on a rock by a Incan built stone wall, sneaking bites of a sticky raisin pastry, whispy clouds moving quickly, sunlight tickling the back of my neck, straining eyes to see distant people climbing Huayna Picchu, peace and quiet at the wonder.

Let's rewind for just a second. Getting to Machu Picchu was a little bit of a trial. Obviously not compared to taking one of the many multi-day treks in the area but as mentioned in a previous journal entry, we decided against a trek as the cons outweighed the pros for us. But at least by taking the Inca Trail or Salkantay Trek you get bragging rights and a sense of accomplishment. We endured hours upon hours in a minivan teetering on the edge of sheer cliff faces and then a two and a half hour walk along uncomfortable stones and railway track in a downpour to reach Aguas Calientes. Dripping all over the hotel reception floor we had finally arrived at the town in the valley below Machu Picchu tired and with sore feet. We set our bags down in the damp room and peeled off our sodden clothes, our luminous plastic rain macs clung to our skin. After warming showers and dressing in dry clothes we ventured out for dinner where we ate the best veggie burgers of our entire trip so far. Why we've never thought to top burgers with refried beans before we don't know.

The next morning we awoke before sunrise. We had made a last minute decision the night before and decided to take a shuttle up the winding roads to Machu Picchu rather than walk the hundreds of steps. Craig joined the already long queue for bus tickets while I joined the even longer queue for the shuttle bus itself. The sun rose and illuminated the street, valley and Urubamba river. The excitement was palpable, many had endured days of walking to be here, some had simply jumped on a train but everyone was eager to get to the wonder.

Eventually the buses began to run, we were lucky enough to be on the second or third of the morning, each came in quick succession. We were driven along the side of the river and had to disembark to cross a metal bridge and then swiftly boarded the bus waiting on the other side. We zig-zagged our way up and up, Aguas Calientes became smaller as we ventured closer to the clouds. I couldn't help but feel awe at the location, in Incan times this place would have been completely isolated. The road appeared to have been cut into the landscape but besides that all that could be seen were trees.

We reached the top and joined the queue to scan our pre-bought tickets. We then waited for our tour guide to materialise, I was becoming increasingly impatient. The Incan citadel was out of sight but mere metres away and we were stood waiting outside with hoards of people, crammed together. Finally our English speaking guide appeared and led us through. We passed a straw thatched building and squeezed by the crowd to see Machu Picchu before us.

The Iconic View at Machu Picchu, Peru

Misty Morning at Machu Picchu in Peru

Iconic Huayna Picchu stood firm behind the citadel, perfectly preened terraces of grass cascaded down the steep valley walls and an ominous mist hung in the air giving Machu Picchu a haze of mystery. Smooth stone structures sat ripe for exploring and the surrounding mountains provided the most incredible setting for the Incan stronghold. We had donned our rain macs but the weather held out, the clouds which at first had collected to form an overcast sky started to dissipate. Slithers of blue appeared and as the sun broke free the intense heat could be felt immediately. 

Clouds in Constant Flux at Machu Picchu, Peru

The Beauty of the Mountains at Machu Picchu, Peru

Our guide ushered us around the site, stopping to point out local animals in his book and show us photographs taken when American explorer Hiram Bingham brought the ruins to attention in 1911 after being shown the site by a young local guide. Our senses were overwhelmed and we regularly fell behind the group taking photographs from every available angle. Each time the shutter clicked a cloud moved and the light changed, no two photographs were the same and in our eyes everything had to be captured. 

Once our tour had finished we left the complex briefly due to the one way system layout and used the opportunity to stamp a passport page with the souvenir stamp provided. We walked through the gates for a second time, our ticket was valid for three entries in a day to allow for food and bathroom breaks. We shot straight up the terraces to snap a photo of the view from the Hut of the Caretaker of the Funerary Rock which has had its thatched roof restored. A handy flat green area lies just behind the hut and is a perfect place to sit on the grass and look. Look at the expertly carved stones, the people posing, the children running and the light changing. 

Watching the Clouds at Machu Picchu, Peru

Facing Fears at the Inca Bridge, Machu Picchu, Peru

We took ourselves off to see the Inca Bridge, a walk which you are required to sign in and out of for safety. The path hugs the cliff and on the other side a small wall creates a barrier between you and a huge drop into the valley below. The short walk with wonderful views was highly enjoyable and the narrow Incan Bridge was fascinating to see. On close inspection the line of greenery along the cliff reveals a trail used by the Inca's. The bridge and trail are closed to the public for obvious safety reasons. 

The Trail to the Inca Bridge, Peru

The Inca Bridge at Machu Picchu, Peru

We returned along the same trail and made our way to the Sun Gate which was a longer walk uphill. In the baking heat of the midday sun this proved a little challenging but regular shady rest stops were ample respite. We reached the Sun Gate, rewarded with panoramic views over the valley and now distant citadel we sat and listened to birds, dozing for a few minutes and taking the opportunity to drink it all in. The Inca Trail comes through the Sun Gate so I snuck down the path a little and walked back through to see what would be the first view for the trekkers, knowing their efforts would be more than rewarded. 

Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate, Peru

The Road to Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate, Peru

We made our way back down the trail which was much easier going down and stopped for one last look before descending the terraces and walking to the shuttle bus. We'd spent nine hours at Machu Picchu, quietly observing all there was to see and feeling like no other place could ever live up to its magic. 

Us at Machu Picchu

High on the adventure of the previous day the walk back along the railway track was much easier and the rain only graced us for a few minutes leaving us dry enough for the long drive back to Cusco. 

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