Lake District, Chile

Bariloche in Argentina's Lake District turned out to be one of our favourite places, so we were excited to see the area from the Chilean side.

Puerto Varas

Our first stop was in Puerto Varas. We found our hostel with some help from a local lady, two sweet dogs greeted us with excited wagging tails as we checked in. The dorm room was certainly different, I had a top bunk with a little curtain while Craig's bed was in the rafters. He had to climb a ladder which was rusticly carved from wood to reach a tiny balcony then use a foot stall to reach his mattress overlooking the rest of the room.

We ventured out for a walk, across the lake from the town two huge volcanoes dominate the landscape. We got some maracuya flavour ice creams and enjoyed the perfectly sunny day on the lake shore where children played, dogs wandered and locals sunned themselves. 

Osorno Volcano

Looking Out Over the Lake

The following day we decided to go for a walk in the national park. We waited what seemed like a long time for our bus to Petrohue, with no timetable we sat and people watched in the meantime. An older gent, slightly scruffy in appearance started chatting to us. He mentioned that he had lived in the U.K. and started talking about the wedding of Charles and Diana of all things. I was slightly on edge as while he was chatting away, his false teeth kept slipping and I was worried they'd fall out of his mouth! Our bus appeared and so we said goodbye and we got on, what a characterful chap we thought. 

Walking Through Forest

Kicking Up Dust

Once at the national park we started walking, the trail was sandy which made things a little difficult but the landscape was very beautiful. The volcano was visible and the whole area was covered with bright yellow flowers. We walked for a few hours before returning to make sure we were in time for the last bus.  

It Was All Yellow

Craig Admiring the View

The weather had taken a turn for the worse the next day. We decided to see the Petrohue waterfall as we didn't have time the day before. It was raining cats and dogs and stupidly we were wearing canvas shoes rather than our boots. The power of the river was incredible and it was a beautiful deep blue colour. We walked along a little trail and ended up taking a wrong turn, while crossing a stream a rock moved and Craig's whole foot ended up engulfed by water, two seconds later he hit his head on a low branch, he was not happy! On our return to Puerto Varas we stopped by Cafe Barista for treats. I had an orange and cinnamon hot chocolate which smelt like Christmas and an amazing raspberry cheesecake to go with it, while Craig had his favourite; lemon meringue pie. In the evening Nary the wonderful hostel owner made us all pisco sours and we had lots of fun chatting to all the guests, attempting to speak Spanish and laughing the evening away. 

Valdvia  

We left Puerto Varas for Valdivia a short journey away. We checked in to our hostel and then immediately caught a local bus to a fort where we spotted a type of small dolphin off the coast and got chatting to a local family.  

Sunbathing Sea Lion  

Waiting for Fish

The next day we walked along the waterfront to see the huge sea lions and the undercover market. Birds were flocking to the fish stalls and the fresh fruits looked so inviting. We crossed the bridge and enjoyed a picnic in the botanical garden before looking around and practicing our photography skills. 

Pucón 

We left Valdivia after two nights and ventured to Pucón, home to a huge volcano that people flock to the area to climb. On the day we arrived it was 32 degrees Celsius and we could really feel it. We walked to the sandy beach on the lake and sat under the shade of a tree. When we returned to the hostel to make dinner I noticed how horrible the kitchen was, dirty and poorly equipped. My mood suddenly dropped and wasn't helped by a terrible nights sleep either. 

Los Lagos in Huerquehue  

On the Trail

Parque Nacional Huerquehue was on our itinerary so the following morning we got up early to catch the once a day bus. Unfortunately the bus was full but as there were so many of us waiting they put on an extra bus to take us the one hour journey. We signed in, paid the fee and began the Los Lagos trail, about a 7km round trip through forest to picturesque lakes and back again. We stopped at a pretty waterfall on the way up a steep trail which provided much needed rest. After chatting with two British couples at a viewpoint we continued only to come across a type of tarantula on the path. My first instinct was to let out a little squeal, spiders are not my favourite. With some coaxing I managed to dash past the huge spider and continue on. We reached the lakes and stopped for lunch while other walkers dived in the freezing water. On our return we stopped by another waterfall and thankfully didn't come across another spider! 

In Huerquehue National Park

Hairy Spider on the Trail

We checked into a new hostel the next day, one recommended by a couple on our walk. Already the new hostel had a much nicer vibe, we got chatting to several people in the kitchen including Australian couple Kate and Michael. After hanging out for a while we decided to get some fresh air and ice cream while the Aussie's went to see the beach. In the evening we all went out for dinner at a vegetarian restaurant where we enjoyed Mexican food, brownies and fun chat. 

Volcano and Dusty Roads

Lush Forest  

After a slow start the four of us decided to go to Ojos del Caburgua, some nearby waterfalls. We caught a local bus and disembarked at the falls where we paid a small entrance fee. It was a hot sunny day and the water looked very inviting, it was crystal clear and a beautiful azure colour. We found a spot overlooking a lagoon for our picnic lunch before deciding to see the other side of the river. It turned out that the other side is owned by someone else and there is no bridge to cross the river. We walked around which ended up being at least a 3 kilometre walk in the baking sun along dusty roads. A piña ice lolly helped cool us down and we saw the falls from a different and more impressive perspective. 

At Ojos del Caburgua  

Crossing Rivers

With the prospect of walking all the way back round to the bus stop we decided to instead cross the river. The Aussie's made it look so easy, hopping from one stone to the next, Kate was wearing flip flops! I seem to be incapable of keeping my balance in such moments and so took what I thought to be a less risky route. With everyone safely across I found myself stranded at the bottom of a 20 foot riverbank surrounded by rocks and bush. With Craig at the top looking down I thought I found a way up I could manage, suddenly he slipped and my heart raced. He grabbed a branch which snapped in his hands, I held out my arms instinctively to catch him and he landed perfectly, knees bent and on his feet with just a couple of grazes and a bleeding finger. Together we scrambled up the bank being careful not to snag ourselves on the barbed wire while Micheal and Kate looked on, we'd saved ourselves a walk but somehow I'd made it more difficult than it really needed to be! 

Next stop; back to city life in Santiago.  

 🎥 Chile - Up's and Down's:

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Chiloé, Chile

After getting in a bit of a tizz about how we were going to travel Chile we finally made a decision. The ferry options were both too expensive and as we've managed to travel completely overland throughout South America so far we didn't want to fly to our next destination. We decided on a 30 hour coach ride to Puerto Montt from Punta Arenas, unfortunately we'd be skipping the Carratera Austral completely as the coach travels up through Argentina. 

Thirty hours on a coach sounds hellish but as we've done several very long overnight journeys it wasn't anything we're not used to now. If you are planning to travel South America on a budget then be prepared for mammoth lengths of time on buses, and download lots of podcasts to listen to. 

Magazines at the Hostel in Ancud

Cute Sign at 13 Lunas House in Ancud

We arrived in a very hot Puerto Montt laden with bags and no place to stay. The city was a little rough around the edges, it's primarily a stopover for travellers as there aren't too many sights to see. Wandering around in heat we haven't felt in weeks with our rucksacks was a struggle but we managed to find a cheap place to stay on the main street. Once in the room I noticed stains on the sheets, a dank smell and how shabby the walls and furniture were. We logged onto the wifi and I had recieved a message from my mum, her uncle had passed away. I immediately began to well up, it's so hard being away from home in times like these, all I wanted was to be home and give my mum a hug. 

The next day we caught a bus to Ancud on Isla Grande de Chiloé, thankfully it was a quick couple of hours away. The hostel was just across the road from the station, we checked in and it was a dream. Beautiful wooden floorboards, a clean and equipped kitchen with free tea and coffee and fresh fruit. Upstairs featured a terrace overlooking the water and a comfy lounge area. Our bunk beds were huge and wonderfully comfy, we'd gone from one accomodation extreme to the other. After chatting with the guy on reception about buying local and supporting small we went shopping and bought everything we needed from the little independent stores in town. We popped into Retro Cafe for a late lunch and were served massive portions, a 'man vs food' style vegetarian burrito for me and potato wedges and toppings for Craig. Chiloé is famous for its wooden churches and so we visited a museum inside a church. In the evening we watched the sunset from the terrace. 

Local House on Chiloé 

Chilean Garden

Now, I don't want to go on about it but the breakfast in the hostel was amazing and we were telling people about it for days. When you're backpacking on a budget all that really matters is a clean and comfy place to stay, good wifi for keeping in touch and a delicious breakfast. It really is the simplest of things that make us happy. We spent the day wandering around Ancud, visiting the fort and local beach before retiring to the hostel terrace for an evening chatting with other travellers. 

Church of San Francisco in Castro

Blue Skies and Pink Flowers

Unfortuately we couldn't justify another night at the wonderful hostel so we moved on to Castro a town further down the island. We checked in and went out in search of the famous palafitos which are the houses on stilts over the waters edge. We waited till high tide and then did a little boat trip to take a few photographs.   

Palafitos

All the Colour

The next day we donned shorts and t-shirts for a first time in a long while and set off for Chiloé's national park. We went for a walk along the boardwalks and enjoyed a leisurely pace, the sun was shining and it felt very peaceful. 

Chiloé National Park

Walking at Leisure

We decided to visit one of the smaller islands and so the following day we caught a local bus to Achao where we wandered along the sea front and saw one of the oldest wooden churches. We got chatting to a Canadian couple on a year long adventure in the evening. Gordon and Ginette gave us some helpful tips on places we should see in the north. In the morning before we left Craig and Gordon woke just before sunrise to capture photographs of the harbour and palafitos. I enjoyed the extra hours of sleep. 

Sunrise by the Water

Sunrise and Boats

 Next stop: Chile's Lake District. 

🎥 Chile - Up's and Down's: 

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Torres del Paine, Chile

Torres del Paine; one of the worlds most beautiful national parks and a place Chilean's are extremely proud of, and quite rightly so. The park is a Unesco Biosphere Reserve, home to soaring peaks, shimmering blue lakes, enchanting forests and herds of guanaco. 

We travelled from Ushuaia in the early morning and arrived at Puerto Natalas by nightfall. We were officially starting our Chilean adventure after many weeks in Argentina which felt very exciting, a whole new country to explore. Our accomodation in Puerto Natales was a little different, we checked in to Domos House which comprises of several PVC covered domes with bunk beds inside. It reminded me of the tents in Harry Potter, these were not quite so magical as I had to wear several layers and thermal socks to bed. 

After a chat with the owner of Domos who has travelled Chile extensively we found ourselves in a predicament; how were we going to travel Chile and where next after Puerto Natales? He rattled off what felt like a million ideas, all seemed a little difficult or involved a lot of expense. Our options included the 4 day Navimag ferry through the fjords for USD$550 each or a cheaper 2 day ferry and then hitchhiking. Hostels would be few and far between so we'd probably need a tent too. As we thought through each option our headaches became bigger and the costs seemed to be spiralling. We hadn't quite realised how difficult the south of Chile would be to travel, there are pros and cons to winging it round a continent, this is one of the cons. We mulled over our choices and looked forward to our tour of Torres del Paine for the following day. 

The bed was so warm and cosy but the dome was not. I struggled to get up as the cold was biting but our tour awaited. The minibus picked us up and we made our way towards the park. The first stop was at a cave where milodon (huge land dwelling creature related to sloth) skeletons have been found. As the entry cost was extra we decided to instead photograph the mountains and go for a short walk while we waited. 

The second stop was at a shop/cafe selling the usual merchandise, I enjoyed flipping through photography magazines next to the roaring wood burner, warmth has been feeling a little like a luxury lately.   

Wood Store

Azure Lake

Finally we arrived at the park and paid the hefty entrance fee of $21,000 CLP each which equates to around £25.00. Luckily the ticket can be used over three days. Each viewpoint inside the park was truly breathtaking, azure lakes, herds of guanacos milling around and mountain back drops. We saw rainbow embellished waterfalls, turbulent rivers and crossed rickety bridges to see ice berg topped lakes. 

At the Waterfall

River View

For lunch we ate our picnic with a lake view, the sun was shining and was warm enough that I could remove my coat. We had to be careful not to let the resident and not shy at all armadillos get at our food. 

We'd experienced all four seasons while in the park; gusts of wind that nearly knocked me off my feet, warm sunshine and heavy rain. 

Lonely Tree

Walking to the Clouds

The next day we decided to see more of the park and attempt to get up close to the famous towers, the element that the park is named after. We donned our walking boots and layers and caught a transfer to the rangers office. As we bought our tickets the day before we skipped the queue and watched a short compulsory video about the park including do's and dont's. A huge portion of the park was destroyed by fire in 2011 caused by a tourist and so measures have been to taken to ensure this doesn't happen again. 

The Route  

Working Horses

We started the walk, it was a lovely clear day though quite brisk. A few minutes in we were headed uphill, it's nothing we're not used to but it's still a challenge each time. As we rose higher the views got better, the colourful landscape contrasted with the cloudy sky. We walked along a ridge with a steep drop and eventually reached a refuge where a helicopter was dropping off supplies a few metres from where we were stood. Onwards we went through forests and winding tracks, leaping over puddles and balancing on logs to avoid the boggy mud. As we walked snow started to fall, once enough accumulated on the branches above a load would fall narrowly missing our heads. 

Woodland Walking  

Snow Dusted Trees

Eventually we reached an opening and were blinded by the snow, the trail carried on to the most difficult section. We walked up and up, raising our legs high to gain purchase on the improvised rocky steps. Branches became helpful handrails although I needed a hand from Craig to negotiate some of the steps. The trees thinned out and the path was a mess of dirt and compacted ice. I have trouble keeping my balance on ordinary roads and so the ice and snow made things especially difficult for me. I was making progress though at a snails pace, helpful passers by lent me their hands so I could walk without slipping. I was beginning to lose patience, the walk felt never ending and I was feeling fatigued at the constant fear of losing my balance and falling. 

The Towers

Blanket Snow

At last, the towers were in sight! Shrouded by cloud but still visable enough to admire. A couple close by were looking overjoyed, after asking Craig to take their photo they announced that they'd that minute got engaged and she showed off her ring. We tucked into our cheese and avocado sandwiches perched on a snowy rock before negotiating the walk down. With more confidence and with gravity on our side my pace was much quicker, we walked back barely stopping to ensure we made the last transfer. It was a tough walk, but one that will remain in my memory. As is tradition we had hot chocolates at the end of the walk and once back to Puerto Natales we treated ourselves to dinner out, such a rarity on our budget but well deserved. 

The Towers and Us!

Next stop: The Island of Chiloé.

🎥 Chile - Up's and Down's:

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