Norway

Leaving the arrivals hall of Oslo airport we stepped on to the train platform. I dived straight into my little carry-on case to dig out my fluffy pompom topped hat, scarf and gloves, the chill in the air caused our breath to steam, I could already feel the cold biting at my legs. Luckily within minutes the train arrived and we piled on, grabbing a window seat so that we could watch the snow-covered landscape as we passed. From the plane I had noticed how white the landscape was, tall trees were dusted with snow like icing sugar and huge lakes had been frozen over. I wasn't sure if what we'd packed would be enough for a week long wintry trip, but with Norway apparently being one of the most expensive countries to visit in Europe we would have to make do. 

Colourful Buildings of Oslo, Norway

A Tram in Oslo, Norway

We arrived at Oslo Sentrum Station and walked to our hotel, once we'd layered up we went out for a walk and to find a bite to eat. Oslo seemed modern for the most part with beautifully historic buildings dotted around, it was eerily quiet and unlike any capital city that we had visited before. There were scatterings of ice on the ground, trams and buses wound their way through the streets. We found a burger joint called Tommi's to eat an early dinner, the sloppy veggie burgers and salty fries were delicious, at £30 for the meal with soft drinks we could see how prices were a little steeper than back home. We took a walk around the streets, ventured in bookshops and eyed up the windows of pretty plant-filled home stores before wandering along a snowy path to Akershus Fortress where we saw the beautiful setting sun over the harbour. 

The Scream by Edvard Munch in The National Gallery, Oslo in Norway

Detail Of White Night By Edvard Munch in The National Gallery, Oslo in Norway

The next day we grabbed breakfast at a sweet cafe before popping to the National Gallery opposite. The museum showcased Greek and Roman sculptures, paintings in oil by Cranach and landscapes by Impressionist painters. The star gallery was of course the room devoted to Edvard Munch, Norway's most famous artist. Seeing eerie The Scream in real life was interesting but my favourite piece in the room was Madonna. We left the hustle of the museum and took a walk past the Royal Palace towards Vigeland Park, as we walked the 4 kilometres through residential streets lined with colourful wooden houses snow started to fall, it was so peaceful. We encountered a handful of locals walking their dogs and a couple of wheel spinning cars trying to plough through the snow drifts. The park was a huge blanket of white, children were sledding down any hill they could find and couples walked hand in hand. The sculptures by Norwegian artist Gustav Vigeland were exquisite, made in iron and granite they depicted the human form in a myriad of different shapes, sizes and poses. I managed to persuade Craig to strike the same pose as one of the sculptures, despite embarrassment I had a go too and giggles ensued. With snow still falling we took a walk through the tree lined avenues and then returned to the city centre where we stumbled upon San Francisco Soup Bowl; a new cafe serving filled bread bowls, the kind that we had eaten on a trip to Reykjavik. I had macaroni cheese in a bread bowl while Craig had a vegan curry soup. Both were delicious and exactly what our bodies needed to warm up.

Sculptures in Vigeland Park in Oslo, Norway

Sculpture in Vigeland Park in Oslo, Norway

The next morning we woke bright and early for our train to Bergen. As the train smoothly glided through tunnels the landscape changed from urban to tree littered countryside and isolated wooden shacks to bleak and beautiful white noise. Cups of tea and a cinnamon bun from the cafe carriage kept us going through the six and a half hour journey, on reaching Bergen the sky had changed to cloudless blue. We arrived at the station and wheeled our cases through the town, past the park and up a cobblestone street to our apartment which was the bottom floor of a traditional Norwegian wooden house. We had decided to get an apartment rather than a hotel so that we could cook the majority of our meals in an effort to save money, that budget backpacker mentality doesn't ever go away! We strolled to the local mini-market and bought supplies which was just like when we were travelling as we had to work out what was worth buying and what meals we could create from very little. 

On The Oslo to Bergen Train Journey in Norway

On The Oslo to Bergen Train Journey in Norway

We had decided that our first activity in Bergen should be to take the funicular railway to the top of Mount Floyen which is what we did. The views from the top were outstanding though the ice on the paths made it a little treacherous to walk around, I clung on to Craig's arm for dear life and didn't let go. We decided to take a walk through the snowy woodland which felt like stepping into Narnia, luckily we managed to hash together a route that avoided too many slippery sections. A lot of locals were out walking/skiing with their dogs as it was such a brilliantly sunny day, our lunch spot on a half snow-covered bench overlooking trees and distant fjords was stunning.

A Winter Wonderland On Top Of Mount Floyen in Bergen, Norway

A Winter Wonderland On Top Of Mount Floyen in Bergen, Norway

We walked further, reaching a pathway that we couldn't travel any further on as it has been blocked by an avalanche. Instead we followed a route to the right, stopping to admire huge icicles that had formed on a rock face. Our final stop before turning back was at a viewpoint which overlooked the vast landscape, snow covered winding roads, forests and the other mountains of Bergen including Mount Ulriken, the tallest. We returned to city level and walked along the waterfront to the historic row of wooden shops and pubs known as Bryggen.

A Snowy Walk On Top Of Mount Floyen in Bergen, Norway

On Top Of Mount Floyen in Bergen, Norway

The next morning we got up and out the door early to take a three hour cruise through Osterfjorden to Mostraumen. We bought our tickets at the quay and boarded the sleek modern catamaran. Inside was kept warm and cosy, as we left the harbour with Bryggen on our right we saw huge ships and cruise liners, as we got further from the city we noticed little caves in the coastline, rickety wooden steps leading to colourful boathouses and grand houses perched on cliff edges. The fjord began to narrow so we ventured out onto the deck, the air was bitingly cold and the wind meant I had to keep hold of the bobble on my hat as I was scared it would blow away. The views were stunning, especially the perfect reflections on the water as the boat slowed right down. From the front we could see the bow breaking ice on the water, a waterfall right in front of us had completely frozen. We slowly turned around and made our way back to Zachariasbryggen, Bergen's harbour. We retreated inside the cabin with a hot chocolate to warm up for the return journey.

Osterfjorden to Mostraumen Cruise in Bergen, Norway

Osterfjorden to Mostraumen Cruise in Bergen, Norway

Once on dry land we went for a wander along cobblestone streets to see an historic side of the city; traditional houses, quaint little squares and maze-like walkways and steps. We ended the walk by going through a commercial area right by the waters edge and had a picnic lunch on the quay right by where our catamaran had docked. 

Walking In Search Of Colourful Houses in Bergen, Norway

Walking In Search Of Colourful Houses in Bergen, Norway

On our last full day in Bergen we were unsure what to do at first. It was another clear, blue sky morning. We had contemplated going out on another boat to see more of the surrounding area but decided instead to venture to the outskirts of town to catch the Ulriken643 cable car to the top of Bergen's highest mountain; Mount Ulriken. As we sailed up in the little yellow car we got chatting to a local man who was going to ski from the top of Ulriken all the way to Mount Floyen where we had visited earlier in the week. We wished him luck and waved him off before taking a look at the amazing views of the city and fjords below. We could see for absolutely miles. The ground was incredibly snowy underfoot and quite slippery too. We decided to take a little walk out in the snow which was easier said than done. Occasionally our foot would land in a deep patch of snow and be completely covered, it was a real workout trying to get anywhere. We slid down one section on our bums to avoid slipping over and carried on trudging until we found a perfect spot by a lonely hut to eat lunch. With the sun beating down and us out of breath from the walk it didn't even seem cold, I think it may have been the most beautiful little lunch spot that we have found on our travels. We walked a little further though I was wary of going too far knowing just how strenuous the walk back would be where we'd have to go up the steep hill we'd just slid/walked down. While I sat on a snowless rock in the sun Craig walked on for a couple of minutes, I watched him get further and further away, eventually I could no longer hear anything except my own breath, there was complete blissful silence. I watched as Craig took photographs of the views , a couple of walkers passed by kitted out in heavy snowshoes. Craig returned and we began the walk back which seemed easier as we found a forged pathway of compacted snow which was more slippery but less exhausting to walk on. After practically crawling on our hands and knees up the steep icy hill we made it back to where we'd started. It was hard to leave, the lack of people, beautiful quiet and commanding views were hypnotising. After one last look around we took the cable car back down. We made our way back to town and walked from the bus station past the huge half frozen lake to our neighbourhood. 

The City Of Bergen As Seen From Mount Uliriken, Norway

Distant Fjords and Trees on Top of Mount Ulriken in Bergen, Norway

It had come to our last day, our flight was at 7pm but we had to vacate our characterful apartment by 12pm so we enjoyed a leisurely morning with a homemade cooked breakfast before leaving with our cases in tow. We walked to cafe Klosteret Kaffebar which I'd found on TripAdvisor. We'd hoped to be able to while away a couple of hours there but it was packed to the rafters. It was a small cafe with photographs of famous musicians on the walls, a stack of board games and pretty lights. We found a table and enjoyed a coffee and creamy hot chocolate before leaving to take a walk to a park right on the waters edge. We sat on a bench in the sun with a view through trees to water and the coast opposite, small boats would glide past every now and again. We ended our trip with a very unglamorous fast food late-lunch purely due to the fact that other restaurants were too expensive or annoyingly closed before catching a coach to the airport. 

Snowy Trails and a Lonely Lodge on Mount Ulriken in Bergen, Norway

The Yellow Cable Car to Mount Unlriken in Bergen, Norway

Our wonderful six nights away in Norway had encompassed everything that we had wanted, galleries, eateries and park life in Oslo, one of the worlds most beautiful train journeys, two snowy mountain adventures and a trip out on the water to see fjords too. Thank you so much to my love Craig for organising such a perfect and memorable trip to celebrate my thirtieth birthday. 

Craig and I On Top Of Bergen's Highest Mountain; Ulriken

A Handful of Hopefully Helpful Hints:

• Oslo Airport, Gardermoen has a train station underneath, you can buy a train ticket to take you to Oslo Sentrum (Central) easily from a ticket machine in the Arrivals Hall. 
• The Tourist Information Point in Bergen is next to the fish market on the harbour, there is a huge range of leaflets to take and tours can be booked from here.
• The Mostraumen cruise is a more affordable way of seeing the coast and fjord landscape, tickets can be bought directly on the quay where the catamaran leaves or from the Tourist Information Point.
• Ulriken643 cable car is on the outskirts of the city, buses leave from the Xhibition centre, make sure you buy your bus ticket from the bus stop ticket machine as the bus driver charges much more, there is a ticket machine at bus stop for the return journey too. 
• Our bus driver alerted us to the Ulriken643 stop but it felt like we'd been dropped in the middle of nowhere, cross the road and either walk to the left where the road sweeps uphill to the right or do what we did and go right and then left up a slope and lots of steps past the hospital. If you look you'll see the cable car so just walk in the general direction and you'll find it. I believe there is a direct bus that connects the cable car to the city but this wasn't running when we went and the general bus is easy if you ask the bus driver to let you know when to jump off.  

If you're planning a trip or want to know any more then please don't hesitate to get in touch. 

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Tosh, India

Laden with a heavy backpack on my back and a full rucksack on my front I found myself walking uphill along the edge of a road, with a steep drop to my left down to a rumbling river. Miles from the destination we were meant to be at by now, almost certainly winging it. How did we get here? 

A Ramshackle House On The Hill In Tosh, India 

Flowers Found On One Of Our Walks In The Hills In Tosh, India 

We left Manali by public bus, squished into a seat with our bags around us we felt every single bump and pothole in the road. An open window gave some respite to the stuffy air, outside the landscape was verdant, lush green forest, a fierce river and a distinct lack of crowds. Eventually we reached Bhuntur, a dusty and busy hub of activity. As the bus stopped to take on new passengers I watched a man outside the window frying batter in a vat of oil, spinning each piece in turn carefully and efficiently. On we trundled, the bus was heading upwards and the road was getting narrower, traffic on the opposite side was heavy. We passed Kullu, a small town known as a backpacker hangout, perfect for parties apparently which wasn't our scene. Our end destination was a lot quieter and as far as a car could travel on this road. The bus slowed to a stop outside of Kullu, a police woman advised the bus driver that traffic up ahead and narrow roads meant we had to wait, but for how long no one seemed to know. We waited, the minutes ticked by. One by one passengers alighted the bus and began to walk up the road themselves. There was a curve in the road, how far away was the next town exactly? Reluctantly we decided to leave too. I jumped down from the bus, carrying everything I had been living on for months and walked, like a real nomad.

Donkeys At Work In Tosh, India 

So there we were, walking uphill on that narrow road with the perilous drop and the heavy bags. After the curve the next village was revealed and it was within reach. We arrived and after a scramble up a hill caught a taxi to take us where we needed to go, to the last village at the top of the road. The taxi fare wasn't cheap, but with the bus stranded we had no choice if we wanted to make Tosh. Off we went, over a bridge and up the road, zig-zagging across the landscape, weaving in and out of cars on sharp bends despite the dangers. Tosh was much further away than we had anticipated and so the pricey fare actually seemed fair. We left the taxi at the village entrance, walked across a wooden bridge and onto the traffic-free pathways. The village consisted of houses and restaurants perched on stilts on the side of a hill, with maze-like muddy paths lined with cannabis plants connecting each place to the next. Around us were snowcapped mountains, sublime views that demanded all of your attention. We stopped at a couple of guesthouses, Tosh was inundated with them and they were all cheap. The one we had read about was at the top of a hill but was full so we checked in at another slightly lower down with the same commanding views.

Steep And Rocky Terrain In Tosh, India 

A Lightening Bolt Of Sunlight In Tosh, India

We ended up staying in Tosh for five nights. The village was cut off, there was no phone signal, no wifi. We spent our time simply, looking out at the mountains, taking photographs, eating and going for walks. I wrote and drew with no distraction. After two nights in one guesthouse we moved to a different one, just slightly further down the hill with even better views as they were uninterrupted. Each day would start with an impressive full vegetarian breakfast, and end with dinner and a delicious 'hot milk nutella' a milk and nutella concoction. My only anxiety came from the fact that we had been off the grid for a few days and hadn't let anyone know where we were as we hadn't realised that there would be no internet. I was worried that family would have tried to contact us and panicked when we hadn't got in touch back. 

After five peaceful nights in the mountains we left the village with Shimla in mind as our next destination and last stop in Himachal Pradesh. 

🎥 India video:

Have you been to Tosh? If so, what did you think? Maybe you're planning a trip? I've got tonnes of advice and tips I can share. Let me know in the comments below. 

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Huaraz and the Santa Cruz Trek, Peru

We found ourselves sat in a tourist office in the bustling highland town of Huaraz. The air outside was crisp and the weather changeable, from bright sunshine to a biblical downpour in a matter of minutes. Opposite us was a man with shoulder length black hair named Marco. Marco had been telling us about a few of the treks in the region, some sounded hard, others sounded impossible. Somehow we were persuaded to sign up for the Santa Cruz trek; a 31 mile, four day, three night walk through Peru's Cordillera Blanca. It sounded hard but Marco assured us that it was manageable and gave us rough estimates of how long the daily walks would be, his estimates sounded fine and we'd hoped to be able to do a multi-day hike in South America. I used the trek as an excuse to buy as many bars of Cadbury Dairy Milk as Craig would let me for 'sustenance' during the walk.

Turquoise Lagoons and Mountains, Peru

Our Santa Cruz Trekking Group, Peru

The next day, with butterflies in my tummy we woke and packed a small loaned duffle bag with a few essentials, chocolate included. I was feeling apprehensive, it had been ages since we did any proper walking and we'd never done a multi-day hike before. Even as a keen camper at home I wasn't sure what camping in the complete wilderness would be like or what the bathroom situation would be (spoiler alert; there were no bathrooms or toilets for that matter at all throughout the entire trip, cue lots of people ducking behind boulders). Our minivan coasted around Huaraz picking up more people and then we set off. The drive was a couple of hours and as we gained altitude the views became more and more picturesque. The landscape was awash with vibrant green hills, lake water bluer than I imagined possible and winding dusty tracks. We stopped for breakfast and to pick up our park tickets and enjoyed the opportunity to learn more about the group that we'd be trekking with. Finally we made it to Vaquería the hike starting point. Another van load of trekkers arrived making our group much larger than the maximum suggested but there was no turning back now.

Peruvian Life in the Andes

Sheep on the Trek, Peru

On we walked and I was pleasantly surprised to see that the path headed downhill. It was lovely to walk through tiny villages; men in groups greeted me as I passed and sleepy pigs napped on the path edge, a little boy witnessed me slip a little on the rough track and giggled. After a while the track levelled and then inclines began to appear. The thin air started to take its toll and I gradually fell behind the group, I lost sight of them altogether at one point and had to wait for the guide and walker behind me to catch up to point me in the right direction. Waiting behind set me back even further and my morale started to drop. The donkeys, driver, cook and her daughter all passed me in quick succession. In the back of my mind I remembered reading about the trek and how day two in the Huaripampa Valley is notoriously difficult due to its uphill nature all the way to the pass. I kept thinking if I'm struggling with this then what will I be like when the terrain is so much harder? I found myself feeling overwhelmed at the prospect of the longs days ahead and began to feel tearful. Craig had stayed behind to urge me on but we were still only half way to camp. The rough estimate that Marco had given of around 3 hours on the first day was completely out. The thin air and uphill track slowed me right down and made me doubt my abilities.

Through Rock and Cloud I Walked, Peru

Mirroring the Mountains, Peru

Finally after what felt like an eternity the camp came into view. The small dining tent was overcrowded and as we were the second to last to arrive there was no room and I felt a little left out. I decided to sit in the kitchen tent with the cook and her daughter, the donkey driver and guides. The stove heated the tent nicely and I was given a lovely cup of hot tea and a seat with plenty of room to sit on. I listened as the guides chatted in Spanish, picking up as many words as I could and relished the relief of getting off my feet. The sky had turned inky black and torches were needed to navigate to our little soggy tent for our first restless night. As I lay in the cold sleeping bag on the hard ground I could hear the tumultuous river just metres away, how I wished I could magic up a little dinghy to take me back to the start and to civilisation.

Deepest Greens and Fluffiest White, Peru

Sharp Rock and Soft Cloud, Peru

Morning. It was cold, damp and I was feeling tired. With coca tea slowly warming my hands I thought about the walk ahead. I knew I needed to just take it step by step and so I tried to think positively. We started the walk and the rest of the group managed to zoom ahead with seemingly no trouble. I started to wonder if I was just completely unfit and irresponsible for taking on a walk I couldn't manage. I remembered Marco's words about how the walk was fine, manageable, not a problem even for those without experience with altitude. I started to feel completely duped. As with the day before I started to struggle as soon as the path turned uphill. The guides were supportive, praising me for every milestone I got to. At times the tight feeling in my chest and the nausea stopped me in my tracks and I struggled to walk more than a few feet without stopping. It was such an unfamiliar feeling, as someone who usually loves walking I was left feeling disheartened. Tears welled up in my eyes and even nibbling chocolate couldn't save me. With each step I edged closer to the pass, the highest point and most difficult aspect of the trek. At my insistence Craig rushed on ahead to photograph the breathtaking scenery, I didn't want us to miss having photographs of the landscape while the weather was clear. With me was Inbar an Israeli girl walking at a similar pace and the main guide. After hours of pain I was finally starting to develop a rhythm with my walking, I was able to notice the outstanding beauty surrounding me. It was quiet except for the wind and Inba's chatter. The peaks were snowcapped and seemed to shimmer in the sunlight. The sky was in a continuous state of flux, blue sky, then fluffy white cloud, then grey sky filled with hail and rain ready to litter the hills and path. The trail turned rocky and steep but I was able to manage it, my breathing was still laboured but somehow more manageable and the tightness in my chest had subsided. With great effort Inbar and I reached Punta Union pass at 4750 metres and hugged. It was an amazing feeling, I was full of elation. Craig was in his element photographing everything he set his eyes on. At the pass we could see the long path we had walked and the long path still ahead, but thankfully downhill. We drank in the view of the glacial lagoon and white peaks before walking on.

Punta Union Pass, Peru

Mountain Rock, Peru

Our guide walked ahead to help with camp and left us with route instructions. Despite being downhill and our pace being much faster the journey was still long. Halfway down the heavens opened and soaked us to our skin, even our waterproof boots were full of water as the rain ran down our legs. We reached camp completely soaked only to be told off by our guide for leaving the pass too late, in reality we'd not stayed long at all. The rain would have caught us even if we'd left at the same time as the guide, our pace was just not quick enough. We huddled into the kitchen tent where the gas stove could take the chill off and we removed our sodden boots. The lovely cook gave us cinnamon tea and fried cheese pastries which were perfect. At bedtime we found that the sleeping bags had got wet so we layered up as much as possible and miraculously I managed to sleep for most of the night.

Punta Union Pass, Peru

Craig Just After Punta Union Pass, Peru

By morning everything was still drenched so we had to put on wet clothes and boots. As the sun rose the heat intensified which was only a good thing to help dry us all out. At breakfast I could see that my damp legs were steaming in the warmth. It had been decided that we'd all complete the walk in a day, it meant an extra couple of hours of walking but once we'd finished we could relax until pick up the next day. The walk took us through the valley and along the rivers edge, the terrain was relatively flat and easy. We were able to sit and enjoy the surroundings at various points with less pressure. In one spot cows grazed on the bright green grass, some hid behind boulders and birds danced in the sky. After several hours and very tired feet we made it to the final camp and received a cheer from the rest of the group who had already arrived.

Wildflowers in the Valley, Peru

A River Runs Through It, Peru

We sat in the sun with a refreshing drink and petted the dogs that had walked the entire route with the guides. Once Inbar had arrived we jumped in the van and trundled down the road to the natural hot springs. We jumped in, soaking our tired limbs in the hot water. In the evening we listened to a local man sing and play a string instrument, he was a little intoxicated so his voice wasn't entirely in tune but it made for a fun experience. I managed to get a really good nights sleep and for our last breakfast we were treated to pancakes with sweet dulce de leche, a favourite that I've missed since we left Argentina. The van was packed and after a slow start we made our way back to Huaraz stopping at an artisanal ice cream shop on the way. Once back in Huaraz we recovered in our hotel room and then met the group in the evening for a pisco sour. A few of us decided to treat ourselves to a delicious meal at Chilli's; a place that Craig and I had been looking forward to eating at since we discovered it on TripAdvisor.

In It Together, Us at Punta Union Pass, Peru

With the trek behind us I vowed internally never to sign up for a multi-day hike again but in reality I'm proud that I stepped outside of my comfort zone. I questioned myself at so many points, and only made things worse by comparing myself to others and putting pressure on myself to walk faster. I learned that altitude and I aren't the best of friends but with perseverance and belief in myself I can achieve anything.

Conquering The World In My Own Small Way

Apologies for all the moans and groans during that post, never have I ever felt so physically pushed to my limit. Have you ever stepped out of your comfort zone and embarked upon a physical challenge? Let me know in the comments.

🎥 Peru video: 

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