Huaraz and the Santa Cruz Trek, Peru

We found ourselves sat in a tourist office in the bustling highland town of Huaraz. The air outside was crisp and the weather changeable, from bright sunshine to a biblical downpour in a matter of minutes. Opposite us was a man with shoulder length black hair named Marco. Marco had been telling us about a few of the treks in the region, some sounded hard, others sounded impossible. Somehow we were persuaded to sign up for the Santa Cruz trek; a 31 mile, four day, three night walk through Peru's Cordillera Blanca. It sounded hard but Marco assured us that it was manageable and gave us rough estimates of how long the daily walks would be, his estimates sounded fine and we'd hoped to be able to do a multi-day hike in South America. I used the trek as an excuse to buy as many bars of Cadbury Dairy Milk as Craig would let me for 'sustenance' during the walk.

Turquoise Lagoons and Mountains, Peru

Our Santa Cruz Trekking Group, Peru

The next day, with butterflies in my tummy we woke and packed a small loaned duffle bag with a few essentials, chocolate included. I was feeling apprehensive, it had been ages since we did any proper walking and we'd never done a multi-day hike before. Even as a keen camper at home I wasn't sure what camping in the complete wilderness would be like or what the bathroom situation would be (spoiler alert; there were no bathrooms or toilets for that matter at all throughout the entire trip, cue lots of people ducking behind boulders). Our minivan coasted around Huaraz picking up more people and then we set off. The drive was a couple of hours and as we gained altitude the views became more and more picturesque. The landscape was awash with vibrant green hills, lake water bluer than I imagined possible and winding dusty tracks. We stopped for breakfast and to pick up our park tickets and enjoyed the opportunity to learn more about the group that we'd be trekking with. Finally we made it to Vaquería the hike starting point. Another van load of trekkers arrived making our group much larger than the maximum suggested but there was no turning back now.

Peruvian Life in the Andes

Sheep on the Trek, Peru

On we walked and I was pleasantly surprised to see that the path headed downhill. It was lovely to walk through tiny villages; men in groups greeted me as I passed and sleepy pigs napped on the path edge, a little boy witnessed me slip a little on the rough track and giggled. After a while the track levelled and then inclines began to appear. The thin air started to take its toll and I gradually fell behind the group, I lost sight of them altogether at one point and had to wait for the guide and walker behind me to catch up to point me in the right direction. Waiting behind set me back even further and my morale started to drop. The donkeys, driver, cook and her daughter all passed me in quick succession. In the back of my mind I remembered reading about the trek and how day two in the Huaripampa Valley is notoriously difficult due to its uphill nature all the way to the pass. I kept thinking if I'm struggling with this then what will I be like when the terrain is so much harder? I found myself feeling overwhelmed at the prospect of the longs days ahead and began to feel tearful. Craig had stayed behind to urge me on but we were still only half way to camp. The rough estimate that Marco had given of around 3 hours on the first day was completely out. The thin air and uphill track slowed me right down and made me doubt my abilities.

Through Rock and Cloud I Walked, Peru

Mirroring the Mountains, Peru

Finally after what felt like an eternity the camp came into view. The small dining tent was overcrowded and as we were the second to last to arrive there was no room and I felt a little left out. I decided to sit in the kitchen tent with the cook and her daughter, the donkey driver and guides. The stove heated the tent nicely and I was given a lovely cup of hot tea and a seat with plenty of room to sit on. I listened as the guides chatted in Spanish, picking up as many words as I could and relished the relief of getting off my feet. The sky had turned inky black and torches were needed to navigate to our little soggy tent for our first restless night. As I lay in the cold sleeping bag on the hard ground I could hear the tumultuous river just metres away, how I wished I could magic up a little dinghy to take me back to the start and to civilisation.

Deepest Greens and Fluffiest White, Peru

Sharp Rock and Soft Cloud, Peru

Morning. It was cold, damp and I was feeling tired. With coca tea slowly warming my hands I thought about the walk ahead. I knew I needed to just take it step by step and so I tried to think positively. We started the walk and the rest of the group managed to zoom ahead with seemingly no trouble. I started to wonder if I was just completely unfit and irresponsible for taking on a walk I couldn't manage. I remembered Marco's words about how the walk was fine, manageable, not a problem even for those without experience with altitude. I started to feel completely duped. As with the day before I started to struggle as soon as the path turned uphill. The guides were supportive, praising me for every milestone I got to. At times the tight feeling in my chest and the nausea stopped me in my tracks and I struggled to walk more than a few feet without stopping. It was such an unfamiliar feeling, as someone who usually loves walking I was left feeling disheartened. Tears welled up in my eyes and even nibbling chocolate couldn't save me. With each step I edged closer to the pass, the highest point and most difficult aspect of the trek. At my insistence Craig rushed on ahead to photograph the breathtaking scenery, I didn't want us to miss having photographs of the landscape while the weather was clear. With me was Inbar an Israeli girl walking at a similar pace and the main guide. After hours of pain I was finally starting to develop a rhythm with my walking, I was able to notice the outstanding beauty surrounding me. It was quiet except for the wind and Inba's chatter. The peaks were snowcapped and seemed to shimmer in the sunlight. The sky was in a continuous state of flux, blue sky, then fluffy white cloud, then grey sky filled with hail and rain ready to litter the hills and path. The trail turned rocky and steep but I was able to manage it, my breathing was still laboured but somehow more manageable and the tightness in my chest had subsided. With great effort Inbar and I reached Punta Union pass at 4750 metres and hugged. It was an amazing feeling, I was full of elation. Craig was in his element photographing everything he set his eyes on. At the pass we could see the long path we had walked and the long path still ahead, but thankfully downhill. We drank in the view of the glacial lagoon and white peaks before walking on.

Punta Union Pass, Peru

Mountain Rock, Peru

Our guide walked ahead to help with camp and left us with route instructions. Despite being downhill and our pace being much faster the journey was still long. Halfway down the heavens opened and soaked us to our skin, even our waterproof boots were full of water as the rain ran down our legs. We reached camp completely soaked only to be told off by our guide for leaving the pass too late, in reality we'd not stayed long at all. The rain would have caught us even if we'd left at the same time as the guide, our pace was just not quick enough. We huddled into the kitchen tent where the gas stove could take the chill off and we removed our sodden boots. The lovely cook gave us cinnamon tea and fried cheese pastries which were perfect. At bedtime we found that the sleeping bags had got wet so we layered up as much as possible and miraculously I managed to sleep for most of the night.

Punta Union Pass, Peru

Craig Just After Punta Union Pass, Peru

By morning everything was still drenched so we had to put on wet clothes and boots. As the sun rose the heat intensified which was only a good thing to help dry us all out. At breakfast I could see that my damp legs were steaming in the warmth. It had been decided that we'd all complete the walk in a day, it meant an extra couple of hours of walking but once we'd finished we could relax until pick up the next day. The walk took us through the valley and along the rivers edge, the terrain was relatively flat and easy. We were able to sit and enjoy the surroundings at various points with less pressure. In one spot cows grazed on the bright green grass, some hid behind boulders and birds danced in the sky. After several hours and very tired feet we made it to the final camp and received a cheer from the rest of the group who had already arrived.

Wildflowers in the Valley, Peru

A River Runs Through It, Peru

We sat in the sun with a refreshing drink and petted the dogs that had walked the entire route with the guides. Once Inbar had arrived we jumped in the van and trundled down the road to the natural hot springs. We jumped in, soaking our tired limbs in the hot water. In the evening we listened to a local man sing and play a string instrument, he was a little intoxicated so his voice wasn't entirely in tune but it made for a fun experience. I managed to get a really good nights sleep and for our last breakfast we were treated to pancakes with sweet dulce de leche, a favourite that I've missed since we left Argentina. The van was packed and after a slow start we made our way back to Huaraz stopping at an artisanal ice cream shop on the way. Once back in Huaraz we recovered in our hotel room and then met the group in the evening for a pisco sour. A few of us decided to treat ourselves to a delicious meal at Chilli's; a place that Craig and I had been looking forward to eating at since we discovered it on TripAdvisor.

In It Together, Us at Punta Union Pass, Peru

With the trek behind us I vowed internally never to sign up for a multi-day hike again but in reality I'm proud that I stepped outside of my comfort zone. I questioned myself at so many points, and only made things worse by comparing myself to others and putting pressure on myself to walk faster. I learned that altitude and I aren't the best of friends but with perseverance and belief in myself I can achieve anything.

Conquering The World In My Own Small Way

Apologies for all the moans and groans during that post, never have I ever felt so physically pushed to my limit. Have you ever stepped out of your comfort zone and embarked upon a physical challenge? Let me know in the comments.

🎥 Peru video: 

If you enjoyed reading then please click the heart at the bottom, share or better still leave me a comment, I love reading them.

Machu Picchu, Peru

Magnificent Machu Picchu, Peru

Sitting on a rock by a Incan built stone wall, sneaking bites of a sticky raisin pastry, whispy clouds moving quickly, sunlight tickling the back of my neck, straining eyes to see distant people climbing Huayna Picchu, peace and quiet at the wonder.

Let's rewind for just a second. Getting to Machu Picchu was a little bit of a trial. Obviously not compared to taking one of the many multi-day treks in the area but as mentioned in a previous journal entry, we decided against a trek as the cons outweighed the pros for us. But at least by taking the Inca Trail or Salkantay Trek you get bragging rights and a sense of accomplishment. We endured hours upon hours in a minivan teetering on the edge of sheer cliff faces and then a two and a half hour walk along uncomfortable stones and railway track in a downpour to reach Aguas Calientes. Dripping all over the hotel reception floor we had finally arrived at the town in the valley below Machu Picchu tired and with sore feet. We set our bags down in the damp room and peeled off our sodden clothes, our luminous plastic rain macs clung to our skin. After warming showers and dressing in dry clothes we ventured out for dinner where we ate the best veggie burgers of our entire trip so far. Why we've never thought to top burgers with refried beans before we don't know.

The next morning we awoke before sunrise. We had made a last minute decision the night before and decided to take a shuttle up the winding roads to Machu Picchu rather than walk the hundreds of steps. Craig joined the already long queue for bus tickets while I joined the even longer queue for the shuttle bus itself. The sun rose and illuminated the street, valley and Urubamba river. The excitement was palpable, many had endured days of walking to be here, some had simply jumped on a train but everyone was eager to get to the wonder.

Eventually the buses began to run, we were lucky enough to be on the second or third of the morning, each came in quick succession. We were driven along the side of the river and had to disembark to cross a metal bridge and then swiftly boarded the bus waiting on the other side. We zig-zagged our way up and up, Aguas Calientes became smaller as we ventured closer to the clouds. I couldn't help but feel awe at the location, in Incan times this place would have been completely isolated. The road appeared to have been cut into the landscape but besides that all that could be seen were trees.

We reached the top and joined the queue to scan our pre-bought tickets. We then waited for our tour guide to materialise, I was becoming increasingly impatient. The Incan citadel was out of sight but mere metres away and we were stood waiting outside with hoards of people, crammed together. Finally our English speaking guide appeared and led us through. We passed a straw thatched building and squeezed by the crowd to see Machu Picchu before us.

The Iconic View at Machu Picchu, Peru

Misty Morning at Machu Picchu in Peru

Iconic Huayna Picchu stood firm behind the citadel, perfectly preened terraces of grass cascaded down the steep valley walls and an ominous mist hung in the air giving Machu Picchu a haze of mystery. Smooth stone structures sat ripe for exploring and the surrounding mountains provided the most incredible setting for the Incan stronghold. We had donned our rain macs but the weather held out, the clouds which at first had collected to form an overcast sky started to dissipate. Slithers of blue appeared and as the sun broke free the intense heat could be felt immediately. 

Clouds in Constant Flux at Machu Picchu, Peru

The Beauty of the Mountains at Machu Picchu, Peru

Our guide ushered us around the site, stopping to point out local animals in his book and show us photographs taken when American explorer Hiram Bingham brought the ruins to attention in 1911 after being shown the site by a young local guide. Our senses were overwhelmed and we regularly fell behind the group taking photographs from every available angle. Each time the shutter clicked a cloud moved and the light changed, no two photographs were the same and in our eyes everything had to be captured. 

Once our tour had finished we left the complex briefly due to the one way system layout and used the opportunity to stamp a passport page with the souvenir stamp provided. We walked through the gates for a second time, our ticket was valid for three entries in a day to allow for food and bathroom breaks. We shot straight up the terraces to snap a photo of the view from the Hut of the Caretaker of the Funerary Rock which has had its thatched roof restored. A handy flat green area lies just behind the hut and is a perfect place to sit on the grass and look. Look at the expertly carved stones, the people posing, the children running and the light changing. 

Watching the Clouds at Machu Picchu, Peru

Facing Fears at the Inca Bridge, Machu Picchu, Peru

We took ourselves off to see the Inca Bridge, a walk which you are required to sign in and out of for safety. The path hugs the cliff and on the other side a small wall creates a barrier between you and a huge drop into the valley below. The short walk with wonderful views was highly enjoyable and the narrow Incan Bridge was fascinating to see. On close inspection the line of greenery along the cliff reveals a trail used by the Inca's. The bridge and trail are closed to the public for obvious safety reasons. 

The Trail to the Inca Bridge, Peru

The Inca Bridge at Machu Picchu, Peru

We returned along the same trail and made our way to the Sun Gate which was a longer walk uphill. In the baking heat of the midday sun this proved a little challenging but regular shady rest stops were ample respite. We reached the Sun Gate, rewarded with panoramic views over the valley and now distant citadel we sat and listened to birds, dozing for a few minutes and taking the opportunity to drink it all in. The Inca Trail comes through the Sun Gate so I snuck down the path a little and walked back through to see what would be the first view for the trekkers, knowing their efforts would be more than rewarded. 

Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate, Peru

The Road to Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate, Peru

We made our way back down the trail which was much easier going down and stopped for one last look before descending the terraces and walking to the shuttle bus. We'd spent nine hours at Machu Picchu, quietly observing all there was to see and feeling like no other place could ever live up to its magic. 

Us at Machu Picchu

High on the adventure of the previous day the walk back along the railway track was much easier and the rain only graced us for a few minutes leaving us dry enough for the long drive back to Cusco. 

🎥 Peru video:

If you enjoyed reading then please click the heart at the bottom, share or better still leave me a comment, I love reading them.

Santiago, Chile

We arrived in Santiago early, around 7.30am. On Kate and Michael's recommendation we decided to stay in an Airbnb apartment owned by Pato. We dropped off our bags and went out for breakfast, after a long overnight journey we were famished. After some walking we found Wonderland; a quaint looking place with Alice in Wonderland inspired decorations and a delicious sounding menu. A British guy greeted us and told us that we could have scrambled eggs with baked beans, we were sold. Along with our beans and eggs we had home-made muffins, freshly squeezed orange juice and builders brew tea. After our epic breakfast we went for a walk to the park; it was a beautifully sunny and hot day. We decided to go to Palais de Belles Artes to see what art what was on display. After a wander around the exhibits I found the most interesting thing to be the ships mast and sails in the main foyer, little fans created a wind so that it looked like the sails were on the high seas. 

We left the museum and sat in the park under the shade of a tree before walking to Cerro Santa Lucia. After walking up some steps we found ourselves at the top of the hill with amazing panoramic views all around. It felt like a complete oasis from the bustling city below, even the air felt cleaner and cooler. We ventured up and down stairways, through narrow rock and past decorative fountains. There were trees providing shade, pretty flowers and cacti. We had a refreshing drink from a vendor before walking to the apartment via the supermarket. We met Pato our host and his beautiful golden retriever Oliver. It was after hearing about Oliver from Kate and Michael that we decided we really wanted to stay. Our room wasn't quite ready so we found a bar around the corner to while away some time. 

Cerro Santa Lucia

Plant Problem

The next morning we FaceTimed with Craig's family who were having an early Christmas gathering, it was so wonderful to see everyone and especially speak to Craig's nephews Alfie and Aidan who we miss very much. Pato took us to the market he visits for fresh fruit and vegetables every Sunday. We strolled the few blocks to the market and enjoyed walking among the crowds seeing everything that was on offer. With Pato's help as our Spanish is not up to scratch we bought lots of fresh produce to take home, plenty of fruits for breakfast and vegetables for dinners too. On the return home we tried a local type of fast food called sopapilla which is a fried pumpkin bread, it was very tasty and also very cheap. After preparing a fresh fruit salad for lunch we ventured out to Centro Gabriela Mistral an impressive creative hub to check out the architecture and then walked to Museo de Artes Visuales. The gallery contained some very interesting things although the bottom floor was closed off and I couldn't help but think that the best stuff was down there; from the balcony I could see art containing maps and painterly goodness.

Flowers at the Market

The Freshest of Fruits

We caught the excellent metro to the Costanera centre and took the elevator to the top of the tower where we were rewarded with views over the entire city and to the Andes beyond. Once back at ground level we went searching through the countless shops to find a gopro stand which we had misplaced earlier in the trip and we treated ourselves to a Cinnabon purely because they feature on The Secret Life of Walter Mitty; one of our favourite films.

Costanera Centre

The City and Me

The next day on Pato's recommendation we went to the Yungay district to see the street art and more dilapidated side of the city. It didn't feel like the safest of areas so after taking some snaps of the graffiti we started walking to a metro stop. Before leaving the area we spotted a sign advertising vegan food so we went to take a closer look. We found a vegan shop full to bursting with ethical products including vegan completos a type of hot dog with avocado that our friends Sarah and Lee had tasted when they were in Santiago. We pulled up a stool and gorged on completos, delicious juice and vegan dessert. As vegetarians we sometimes miss out on local food experiences as they often feature meat, it was so lovely to be able to encounter something authentically 'Chilean' but with a veggie friendly twist. 

Yungay

Colourful Craig

After our amazing lunch we went to Cerro San Cristobal. Unfortunately the cable car was not running and the funicular railway was broken so we took a minibus to the top. Again we had wonderful views of the city but could also enjoy the quiet gardens and shady spots to people watch while sipping on cold sparkling drinks. From the bottom of the hill we walked to Plaza de Armas which is Santiago's most famous square. The square was full of interesting characters and is shaded by tall palm trees. We went inside Catedral Metropolitana which was beautiful, stained glass windows created rainbow light and displays of bright fresh lillies left a sweet aroma. 

The Aisle

Cathedral Interior

On our final full day in the city we decided to make it a quiet one, we enjoyed a day in the apartment and in the afternoon we went back to the Costanera centre to watch Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them with the biggest bucket of popcorn imaginable. The next day we packed our things and gave Pato a farewell hug, we went to Wonderland for another filling breakfast before heading to the bus station to leave the city for Valparaiso. Our time in Santiago had been fantastic, probably because we were staying with a local who was happy to share his favourite parts of the city with us. Each day was spent doing exactly what we wanted and miraculously despite all the foodie treats we still managed to come in under budget. 

Sunset over Santiago (and the view from our apartment).  

🎥 Chile - Up's and Down's: 

 If you enjoyed reading then please click the heart at the bottom, share or better still leave me a comment, I love reading them.