Machu Picchu, Peru

Magnificent Machu Picchu, Peru

Sitting on a rock by a Incan built stone wall, sneaking bites of a sticky raisin pastry, whispy clouds moving quickly, sunlight tickling the back of my neck, straining eyes to see distant people climbing Huayna Picchu, peace and quiet at the wonder.

Let's rewind for just a second. Getting to Machu Picchu was a little bit of a trial. Obviously not compared to taking one of the many multi-day treks in the area but as mentioned in a previous journal entry, we decided against a trek as the cons outweighed the pros for us. But at least by taking the Inca Trail or Salkantay Trek you get bragging rights and a sense of accomplishment. We endured hours upon hours in a minivan teetering on the edge of sheer cliff faces and then a two and a half hour walk along uncomfortable stones and railway track in a downpour to reach Aguas Calientes. Dripping all over the hotel reception floor we had finally arrived at the town in the valley below Machu Picchu tired and with sore feet. We set our bags down in the damp room and peeled off our sodden clothes, our luminous plastic rain macs clung to our skin. After warming showers and dressing in dry clothes we ventured out for dinner where we ate the best veggie burgers of our entire trip so far. Why we've never thought to top burgers with refried beans before we don't know.

The next morning we awoke before sunrise. We had made a last minute decision the night before and decided to take a shuttle up the winding roads to Machu Picchu rather than walk the hundreds of steps. Craig joined the already long queue for bus tickets while I joined the even longer queue for the shuttle bus itself. The sun rose and illuminated the street, valley and Urubamba river. The excitement was palpable, many had endured days of walking to be here, some had simply jumped on a train but everyone was eager to get to the wonder.

Eventually the buses began to run, we were lucky enough to be on the second or third of the morning, each came in quick succession. We were driven along the side of the river and had to disembark to cross a metal bridge and then swiftly boarded the bus waiting on the other side. We zig-zagged our way up and up, Aguas Calientes became smaller as we ventured closer to the clouds. I couldn't help but feel awe at the location, in Incan times this place would have been completely isolated. The road appeared to have been cut into the landscape but besides that all that could be seen were trees.

We reached the top and joined the queue to scan our pre-bought tickets. We then waited for our tour guide to materialise, I was becoming increasingly impatient. The Incan citadel was out of sight but mere metres away and we were stood waiting outside with hoards of people, crammed together. Finally our English speaking guide appeared and led us through. We passed a straw thatched building and squeezed by the crowd to see Machu Picchu before us.

The Iconic View at Machu Picchu, Peru

Misty Morning at Machu Picchu in Peru

Iconic Huayna Picchu stood firm behind the citadel, perfectly preened terraces of grass cascaded down the steep valley walls and an ominous mist hung in the air giving Machu Picchu a haze of mystery. Smooth stone structures sat ripe for exploring and the surrounding mountains provided the most incredible setting for the Incan stronghold. We had donned our rain macs but the weather held out, the clouds which at first had collected to form an overcast sky started to dissipate. Slithers of blue appeared and as the sun broke free the intense heat could be felt immediately. 

Clouds in Constant Flux at Machu Picchu, Peru

The Beauty of the Mountains at Machu Picchu, Peru

Our guide ushered us around the site, stopping to point out local animals in his book and show us photographs taken when American explorer Hiram Bingham brought the ruins to attention in 1911 after being shown the site by a young local guide. Our senses were overwhelmed and we regularly fell behind the group taking photographs from every available angle. Each time the shutter clicked a cloud moved and the light changed, no two photographs were the same and in our eyes everything had to be captured. 

Once our tour had finished we left the complex briefly due to the one way system layout and used the opportunity to stamp a passport page with the souvenir stamp provided. We walked through the gates for a second time, our ticket was valid for three entries in a day to allow for food and bathroom breaks. We shot straight up the terraces to snap a photo of the view from the Hut of the Caretaker of the Funerary Rock which has had its thatched roof restored. A handy flat green area lies just behind the hut and is a perfect place to sit on the grass and look. Look at the expertly carved stones, the people posing, the children running and the light changing. 

Watching the Clouds at Machu Picchu, Peru

Facing Fears at the Inca Bridge, Machu Picchu, Peru

We took ourselves off to see the Inca Bridge, a walk which you are required to sign in and out of for safety. The path hugs the cliff and on the other side a small wall creates a barrier between you and a huge drop into the valley below. The short walk with wonderful views was highly enjoyable and the narrow Incan Bridge was fascinating to see. On close inspection the line of greenery along the cliff reveals a trail used by the Inca's. The bridge and trail are closed to the public for obvious safety reasons. 

The Trail to the Inca Bridge, Peru

The Inca Bridge at Machu Picchu, Peru

We returned along the same trail and made our way to the Sun Gate which was a longer walk uphill. In the baking heat of the midday sun this proved a little challenging but regular shady rest stops were ample respite. We reached the Sun Gate, rewarded with panoramic views over the valley and now distant citadel we sat and listened to birds, dozing for a few minutes and taking the opportunity to drink it all in. The Inca Trail comes through the Sun Gate so I snuck down the path a little and walked back through to see what would be the first view for the trekkers, knowing their efforts would be more than rewarded. 

Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate, Peru

The Road to Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate, Peru

We made our way back down the trail which was much easier going down and stopped for one last look before descending the terraces and walking to the shuttle bus. We'd spent nine hours at Machu Picchu, quietly observing all there was to see and feeling like no other place could ever live up to its magic. 

Us at Machu Picchu

High on the adventure of the previous day the walk back along the railway track was much easier and the rain only graced us for a few minutes leaving us dry enough for the long drive back to Cusco. 

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Cusco and the Sacred Valley, Peru

Sitting on a wooden bench in Cusco's pretty Plaza de Armas surrounded by beautiful and ancient buildings we had a decision to make. We'd just visited a tour office and been informed that if we wanted to do the famous Inca Trail then we could as due to low season permits were still available. The Inca Trail books up months in advance as only a select number of hikers a day are allowed entry, as we had no idea when we'd be in Peru we had discounted the idea of doing it completely. I was in turmoil, would we regret it if we didn't do it? Could we justify the high cost? Were we even feeling up to it after the altitude sickness in La Paz? In the end we decided to turn down the opportunity. Low season in Peru coincides with rainy season and I wasn't keen on the idea of trekking at high altitude in the pouring rain for three days, sometimes saying no to something is the right thing to do.

Instead we booked a minibus to take us from Cusco to Hidroelectrica where we'd then walk along the railway tracks to Aguas Calientes the town that sits in a valley just below Machu Picchu. Our trip wasn't for a few days so we also booked two tours of the Sacred Valley to fit in as much as possible into our time in the area. After a day of decision making and acclimatising to the altitude we treated ourselves to dinner at Greenpoint a fantastic vegan restaurant. Walking at dusk through the vibrant alleyways by the Incan stone walls to the restaurant we peeked in little shops selling all sorts of curios; incense sticks, little statues and colourful fabrics; I was reminded of the quirky crystal shops in Glastonbury, England.

The next day in the afternoon we joined a tour of the local Sacred Valley sights. We were taken to Qorikancha a former convent turned museum where we learned how Incan walls were made; they required no mortar or cement as the stones were carved so precisely to fit together. We bought a chocolate covered custard filled doughnut from a local woman holding a tray outside, her sweet treats we're going down a storm. We visited many of the local sights but our favourite was Saqsayhuaman where we had just enough time to walk to a viewpoint over Cusco and admire the huge stone walls.

Cusco from Saqsayhuaman in the Sacred Valley, Peru

Local Woman and Alpaca in the Sacred Valley, Peru

Now we'd adjusted to the high altitude we decided to spend a full day exploring the Sacred Valley with an organised tour. The Boleto Turístico that we bought for 130 soles the day before would be our entrance ticket to all but one of the sights. First we stopped at a cultural centre to watch local women weave with naturally dyed wools, we were given a traditional drink to taste and of course encouraged to buy their handcrafted wares.

Naturally Dyed Wools in the Sacred Valley, Peru

Demonstration of Traditional Peruvian Craft in the Sacred Valley

The circular terraces of Moray were a sight to behold, each terrace was used by the Incans to grow experimental crops. The formation of the walls reminded me of an amphitheatre, the crops have since been replaced with lush green grass which is well managed. If you look closely at the walls you will notice small rocks jutting out which were the steps used by the Incans to easily walk from one terrace to the next.

Restored Moray Terraces in the Sacred Valley, Peru

Lush Green Moray in the Sacred Valley, Peru

Ollantaytambo is a name recognised by many who know of the Sacred Valley, the train to Machu Picchu departs from the small town but it also has an Incan sight of its own. We walked through the dusty town to the fortress and began walking up the steps. It was a hot day, the sun was blinding and the sky a perfect blue. The heat made walking a challenge, sweat dripped from my skin and my breathing was laboured. Everyone in the group tried to hide in a tiny sliver of shade created by the stone walls but the guide moved us all on to the top. The views of Ollantaytambo and the Incan sight were beautiful, facing the town and to the left was a cliff face where the Incan’s kept their produce, like a huge natural larder. To the right was a valley and on the other side of the valley was a quarry where the stones were sourced to build the fortress. The Incan’s would somehow have cut and collected the stone and with their might transported it across the valley and up the steep slopes. 

We tried our first Inca Cola at Salineras de Maras a salt mine which we paid an extra 10 soles to enter. Walking down the steps through market stalls selling tiny bags of medicinal salt, chocolate bars and trinkets we felt relief at being under some shade. Inca Cola is a luminous yellow colour, I couldn’t help but think it looked toxic when I saw other people swigging from the clear bottles with a blue label. It tasted however, just like sweet bubblegum. Water is collected in pools and evaporated to leave the salt behind, the pools looked like a patchwork quilt of browns in the valley. 

Salineras de Maras in the Sacred Valley, Peru

Patchwork Quilt Effect at Salineras de Maras in the Sacred Valley, Peru

My favourite sight of the day was Pisac. As we walked through the gates high in the valley the low sun shone through clouds casting shadows over the landscape. A man was playing a pipe; a tune I found so familiar as it has been played all throughout Peru. I’ve since learned that the tune is none other than Sound of Silence by Simon and Garfunkel, it will forever remain a reminder of the beautiful Peruvian landscapes. We walked through a stone structure and there stood Pisac, draped in golden light, infamous lush green terraces and stone walls. We walked to the stone buildings, high on the top it was windy and we began to feel a chill in the air. The guide pointed at holes in the cliff face across the valley; they are Incan tombs that have since been raided by people looking to make money selling the priceless trinkets found inside on the black market.

Terraces at Pisac in the Sacred Valley, Peru

Light and Shadow at Pisac in the Sacred Valley, Peru

Visiting the Sacred Valley sights has fuelled my interest in Incan culture and only makes me more excited to see the most famous Incan sight of them all, Machu Picchu. 

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