Norway

Norwegian Flag Flying On Top Of Mount Ulriken in Bergen, Norway

Leaving the arrivals hall of Oslo airport we stepped on to the train platform. I dived straight into my little carry-on case to dig out my fluffy pompom topped hat, scarf and gloves, the chill in the air caused our breath to steam, I could already feel the cold biting at my legs. Luckily within minutes the train arrived and we piled on, grabbing a window seat so that we could watch the snow-covered landscape as we passed. From the plane I had noticed how white the landscape was, tall trees were dusted with snow like icing sugar and huge lakes had been frozen over. I wasn't sure if what we'd packed would be enough for a week long wintry trip, but with Norway apparently being one of the most expensive countries to visit in Europe we would have to make do. 

Colourful Buildings of Oslo, Norway

A Tram in Oslo, Norway

We arrived at Oslo Sentrum Station and walked to our hotel, once we'd layered up we went out for a walk and to find a bite to eat. Oslo seemed modern for the most part with beautifully historic buildings dotted around, it was eerily quiet and unlike any capital city that we had visited before. There were scatterings of ice on the ground, trams and buses wound their way through the streets. We found a burger joint called Tommi's to eat an early dinner, the sloppy veggie burgers and salty fries were delicious, at £30 for the meal with soft drinks we could see how prices were a little steeper than back home. We took a walk around the streets, ventured in bookshops and eyed up the windows of pretty plant-filled home stores before wandering along a snowy path to Akershus Fortress where we saw the beautiful setting sun over the harbour. 

The Scream by Edvard Munch in The National Gallery, Oslo in Norway

Detail Of White Night By Edvard Munch in The National Gallery, Oslo in Norway

The next day we grabbed breakfast at a sweet cafe before popping to the National Gallery opposite. The museum showcased Greek and Roman sculptures, paintings in oil by Cranach and landscapes by Impressionist painters. The star gallery was of course the room devoted to Edvard Munch, Norway's most famous artist. Seeing eerie The Scream in real life was interesting but my favourite piece in the room was Madonna. We left the hustle of the museum and took a walk past the Royal Palace towards Vigeland Park, as we walked the 4 kilometres through residential streets lined with colourful wooden houses snow started to fall, it was so peaceful. We encountered a handful of locals walking their dogs and a couple of wheel spinning cars trying to plough through the snow drifts. The park was a huge blanket of white, children were sledding down any hill they could find and couples walked hand in hand. The sculptures by Norwegian artist Gustav Vigeland were exquisite, made in iron and granite they depicted the human form in a myriad of different shapes, sizes and poses. I managed to persuade Craig to strike the same pose as one of the sculptures, despite embarrassment I had a go too and giggles ensued. With snow still falling we took a walk through the tree lined avenues and then returned to the city centre where we stumbled upon San Francisco Soup Bowl; a new cafe serving filled bread bowls, the kind that we had eaten on a trip to Reykjavik. I had macaroni cheese in a bread bowl while Craig had a vegan curry soup. Both were delicious and exactly what our bodies needed to warm up.

Sculptures in Vigeland Park in Oslo, Norway

Sculpture in Vigeland Park in Oslo, Norway

The next morning we woke bright and early for our train to Bergen. As the train smoothly glided through tunnels the landscape changed from urban to tree littered countryside and isolated wooden shacks to bleak and beautiful white noise. Cups of tea and a cinnamon bun from the cafe carriage kept us going through the six and a half hour journey, on reaching Bergen the sky had changed to cloudless blue. We arrived at the station and wheeled our cases through the town, past the park and up a cobblestone street to our apartment which was the bottom floor of a traditional Norwegian wooden house. We had decided to get an apartment rather than a hotel so that we could cook the majority of our meals in an effort to save money, that budget backpacker mentality doesn't ever go away! We strolled to the local mini-market and bought supplies which was just like when we were travelling as we had to work out what was worth buying and what meals we could create from very little. 

On The Oslo to Bergen Train Journey in Norway

On The Oslo to Bergen Train Journey in Norway

We had decided that our first activity in Bergen should be to take the funicular railway to the top of Mount Floyen which is what we did. The views from the top were outstanding though the ice on the paths made it a little treacherous to walk around, I clung on to Craig's arm for dear life and didn't let go. We decided to take a walk through the snowy woodland which felt like stepping into Narnia, luckily we managed to hash together a route that avoided too many slippery sections. A lot of locals were out walking/skiing with their dogs as it was such a brilliantly sunny day, our lunch spot on a half snow-covered bench overlooking trees and distant fjords was stunning.

A Winter Wonderland On Top Of Mount Floyen in Bergen, Norway

A Winter Wonderland On Top Of Mount Floyen in Bergen, Norway

We walked further, reaching a pathway that we couldn't travel any further on as it has been blocked by an avalanche. Instead we followed a route to the right, stopping to admire huge icicles that had formed on a rock face. Our final stop before turning back was at a viewpoint which overlooked the vast landscape, snow covered winding roads, forests and the other mountains of Bergen including Mount Ulriken, the tallest. We returned to city level and walked along the waterfront to the historic row of wooden shops and pubs known as Bryggen.

A Snowy Walk On Top Of Mount Floyen in Bergen, Norway

On Top Of Mount Floyen in Bergen, Norway

The next morning we got up and out the door early to take a three hour cruise through Osterfjorden to Mostraumen. We bought our tickets at the quay and boarded the sleek modern catamaran. Inside was kept warm and cosy, as we left the harbour with Bryggen on our right we saw huge ships and cruise liners, as we got further from the city we noticed little caves in the coastline, rickety wooden steps leading to colourful boathouses and grand houses perched on cliff edges. The fjord began to narrow so we ventured out onto the deck, the air was bitingly cold and the wind meant I had to keep hold of the bobble on my hat as I was scared it would blow away. The views were stunning, especially the perfect reflections on the water as the boat slowed right down. From the front we could see the bow breaking ice on the water, a waterfall right in front of us had completely frozen. We slowly turned around and made our way back to Zachariasbryggen, Bergen's harbour. We retreated inside the cabin with a hot chocolate to warm up for the return journey.

Osterfjorden to Mostraumen Cruise in Bergen, Norway

Osterfjorden to Mostraumen Cruise in Bergen, Norway

Once on dry land we went for a wander along cobblestone streets to see an historic side of the city; traditional houses, quaint little squares and maze-like walkways and steps. We ended the walk by going through a commercial area right by the waters edge and had a picnic lunch on the quay right by where our catamaran had docked. 

Walking In Search Of Colourful Houses in Bergen, Norway

Walking In Search Of Colourful Houses in Bergen, Norway

On our last full day in Bergen we were unsure what to do at first. It was another clear, blue sky morning. We had contemplated going out on another boat to see more of the surrounding area but decided instead to venture to the outskirts of town to catch the Ulriken643 cable car to the top of Bergen's highest mountain; Mount Ulriken. As we sailed up in the little yellow car we got chatting to a local man who was going to ski from the top of Ulriken all the way to Mount Floyen where we had visited earlier in the week. We wished him luck and waved him off before taking a look at the amazing views of the city and fjords below. We could see for absolutely miles. The ground was incredibly snowy underfoot and quite slippery too. We decided to take a little walk out in the snow which was easier said than done. Occasionally our foot would land in a deep patch of snow and be completely covered, it was a real workout trying to get anywhere. We slid down one section on our bums to avoid slipping over and carried on trudging until we found a perfect spot by a lonely hut to eat lunch. With the sun beating down and us out of breath from the walk it didn't even seem cold, I think it may have been the most beautiful little lunch spot that we have found on our travels. We walked a little further though I was wary of going too far knowing just how strenuous the walk back would be where we'd have to go up the steep hill we'd just slid/walked down. While I sat on a snowless rock in the sun Craig walked on for a couple of minutes, I watched him get further and further away, eventually I could no longer hear anything except my own breath, there was complete blissful silence. I watched as Craig took photographs of the views , a couple of walkers passed by kitted out in heavy snowshoes. Craig returned and we began the walk back which seemed easier as we found a forged pathway of compacted snow which was more slippery but less exhausting to walk on. After practically crawling on our hands and knees up the steep icy hill we made it back to where we'd started. It was hard to leave, the lack of people, beautiful quiet and commanding views were hypnotising. After one last look around we took the cable car back down. We made our way back to town and walked from the bus station past the huge half frozen lake to our neighbourhood. 

The City Of Bergen As Seen From Mount Uliriken, Norway

Distant Fjords and Trees on Top of Mount Ulriken in Bergen, Norway

It had come to our last day, our flight was at 7pm but we had to vacate our characterful apartment by 12pm so we enjoyed a leisurely morning with a homemade cooked breakfast before leaving with our cases in tow. We walked to cafe Klosteret Kaffebar which I'd found on TripAdvisor. We'd hoped to be able to while away a couple of hours there but it was packed to the rafters. It was a small cafe with photographs of famous musicians on the walls, a stack of board games and pretty lights. We found a table and enjoyed a coffee and creamy hot chocolate before leaving to take a walk to a park right on the waters edge. We sat on a bench in the sun with a view through trees to water and the coast opposite, small boats would glide past every now and again. We ended our trip with a very unglamorous fast food late-lunch purely due to the fact that other restaurants were too expensive or annoyingly closed before catching a coach to the airport. 

Snowy Trails and a Lonely Lodge on Mount Ulriken in Bergen, Norway

The Yellow Cable Car to Mount Unlriken in Bergen, Norway

Our wonderful six nights away in Norway had encompassed everything that we had wanted, galleries, eateries and park life in Oslo, one of the worlds most beautiful train journeys, two snowy mountain adventures and a trip out on the water to see fjords too. Thank you so much to my love Craig for organising such a perfect and memorable trip to celebrate my thirtieth birthday. 

Craig and I On Top Of Bergen's Highest Mountain; Ulriken

A Handful of Hopefully Helpful Hints:

• Oslo Airport, Gardermoen has a train station underneath, you can buy a train ticket to take you to Oslo Sentrum (Central) easily from a ticket machine in the Arrivals Hall. 
• The Tourist Information Point in Bergen is next to the fish market on the harbour, there is a huge range of leaflets to take and tours can be booked from here.
• The Mostraumen cruise is a more affordable way of seeing the coast and fjord landscape, tickets can be bought directly on the quay where the catamaran leaves or from the Tourist Information Point.
• Ulriken643 cable car is on the outskirts of the city, buses leave from the Xhibition centre, make sure you buy your bus ticket from the bus stop ticket machine as the bus driver charges much more, there is a ticket machine at bus stop for the return journey too. 
• Our bus driver alerted us to the Ulriken643 stop but it felt like we'd been dropped in the middle of nowhere, cross the road and either walk to the left where the road sweeps uphill to the right or do what we did and go right and then left up a slope and lots of steps past the hospital. If you look you'll see the cable car so just walk in the general direction and you'll find it. I believe there is a direct bus that connects the cable car to the city but this wasn't running when we went and the general bus is easy if you ask the bus driver to let you know when to jump off.  

If you're planning a trip or want to know any more then please don't hesitate to get in touch. 

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Eternal Inspiration: The Royal Forest of Dean

Five Drawings From Claire Leach's 'Woodland Studies' Series Inspired By The Forest Of Dean 

In November last year my partner and I decided to mark 11 years together by taking a weekend trip to the Forest of Dean. Over two days we did three walks and took hundreds of photographs, the photographs and memories made in that short time have inspired a series of drawings that I am still in the process of making.

This wasn't my first trip to the forest however, it is a place that is so special to me that it is hard to describe. My mum and dad would take me to the Forest of Dean which sits close by the English/Welsh border when I was just a tot. On a visit when I was two we brought home a puppy springer spaniel named Valentine, my parents even looked at moving there permanently. When my parents separated when I was seven my dad continued to take me and my brother to the forest, alongside my step-family. We camped and took bike rides along the trails, my memories from visiting with my whole family became muddled with new memories with my step-family. Despite the emotional upheaval and the hurt I felt during a difficult time the forest remained the same. I could still remember the trees, solid and steadfast, magical and sometimes unnerving. The river still twisted through the land the same way, the rapids by Symonds Yat unchanged. The air smelled like coal smoke and leaf litter in decay, as it always did.

Ancient and Mystical Trees In The Forest Of Dean 

Ferns, Moss and Leaf Litter At The Forest Of Dean

In later years I visited the forest on my own. I'm not sure what it is about the place but whenever I return I feel like I'm home. It's quiet and inspirational, not just to me. J.K. Rowling grew up in a village just outside the Forest of Dean, it is said to have inspired the Forbidden Forest at Hogwarts, not only that but Harry and Hermione camp in the Forest of Dean in the seventh book; The Deathly Hallows. J.R.R. Tolkien is also said to have based Middle-earth on the area in The Lord of the Rings. The enchanting quality that the forest possesses has seduced me and I can only imagine that as long as the trees are still standing that I'll continue to draw them. 

Is there a particular place in the world that you find very inspiring? Perhaps you've used somewhere that you have visited several times in your work, or maybe the place that inspires you most is right on your doorstep? Let me know in the comments below and tell me of any places that you think I'd be inspired by too. 

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The End Of The Road

We waved goodbye to Pokhara and made our way back to Kathmandu by bus. The journey was long but I made sure to take notice of the landscape as we passed. As we left the verdant green countryside behind the air became heavier, dustier and the roads were clogged with slow moving traffic. We had a couple of days to kill until our flight on July 22nd which we spent walking between each of the many souvenir shops buying a myriad of colourful felted coasters, vegan soaps, rucksacks made of hemp and soft scarves. Kathmandu was just as vibrant as it had been when we first arrived a few weeks ago, it was so strange to think that home was just a short couple of days away.

A Chipmunk In The Garden Of Dreams, Nepal

Lillies In The Garden Of Dreams In Kathmandu, Nepal

We ate our last helping of Nepalese fired momo's at a local restaurant and treated ourselves to our 'last supper' at Fire and Ice, the amazing pizzeria we had found when we first arrived. Our last activity of travelling was a couple of hours spent at the Garden of Dreams; a pristine garden filled with lily-ponds, fountains and mischievous chipmunks.

An Urn In The Garden Of Dreams In Kathmandu, Nepal

Chipmunk In The Garden Of Dreams In Kathmandu, Nepal

Our clothes were worn, frayed and stained. Our hair long and unruly, mine hadn't been cut in all the time we'd been away while Craig had only had two haircuts in 11 months and would be returning home with a beard. We'd started our journey in Rio de Janeiro in Brazil after a huge 12 hour delay not knowing where we'd be travelling to or how. We made up the trip as we went and learned the hard way how winging it can cause unforeseen problems but also how exciting an unplanned itinerary made our adventure. Over just under 11 months we'd travelled to 21 countries (22 if you count our 12 hour delay at a hotel in Germany) and experienced all the highs and all the lows that are associated with long term travel.

Not every moment will be one that we'll add to the photo album; being eaten alive by mosquitos and bed bugs, the sleepless nights in a hostel with somebody snoring in the bed next door, the instant noodle dinners to save money and the 36 hour coach ride from the tip of Argentina to Chile. But alongside those moments were seeing Machu Picchu and finishing the most challenging trek of our lives in Peru, finally travelling India by train and having a week of adventures in New York City with family. 

We left our hotel in Kathmandu at 6am and arrived in London at 5pm, both our mums ran towards us as we walked through the arrivals gate. As we got in the car to drive home to Hampshire it felt almost like we'd never left, so quickly does your life get 'back to normal' that the previous months felt like a hazy blur. When we went backpacking for the first time in 2011 for eight months we always knew that we'd go again. We had to. When you're a traveller you'll never 'get it out of your system'. Even with the low moments you always want to see and experience more. As I write this, my final backpacking post we've been home for nearly six months, and although we have other goals in mind like owning our first home together our travelling days are certainly not behind us. We may not travel in the same way again, on one long backpacking trip but we will always want to put adventure and exploration at the centre of our lives because it is what makes us who we are. 

One Of The Last Photographs Of Us From Our Trip In Kathmandu, Nepal

So, now we've reached the 'end of the road' I just want to say a big thank you to those that have followed along with our adventure. That very first post I wrote back in September 2016 while sitting in our Rio de Janeiro apartment sure feels like a lifetime ago. If you've been reading since then, have left me a comment or pressed that little red heart then thank you so much, I'm sending you so much love. 

If you enjoyed reading then please click the heart at the bottom, share or better still leave me a comment, I love reading them. ❤️

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