Jaisalmer, India

The Fort At Jaisalmer From Our Hotel Roof Terrace, India

Jaisalmer; a city in the heart of the desert. We'd arrived from Jodhpur by bus, feeling tired, overheated and in my case quite poorly. A tuk tuk driver brought us to our accommodation; a place named Hotel The Silk Route on the outskirts of the city. We walked along a path with makeshift houses on either side to our hotel, a beautiful honey coloured stone building. Our room was a delight, a huge double bed embellished with intricately designed cushions and throws, walls left natural in warm stone and an immaculate bathroom. It was definitely the best room that we had booked in India and probably in all of our travels and due to low season we got it at a bargain price. Despite the lovely surroundings I was still feeling weak and ill, while I rested in the room Craig went to the hotel roof terrace for dinner and a beer. 

Narrow Streets In Jaisalmer In India

The next day my stomach upset had still not improved and I was starting to feel very low, when I'm feeling unwell my emotions seem to get the better of me, all I wanted was to be at home in my own bed. I couldn't face going outside and ended up spending the day indoors sleeping and trying my best to preserve the energy that I had as it had been a while since I'd eaten any food. 

Narrow Streets In Jaisalmer In India

Finally, when I woke the following day I was feeling much better. My mood had improved dramatically from the day before and I was ready to face the world again. We left the hotel and walked into the city, along the narrow roads between the tall buildings to a temple which we admired for its carvings from the outside. Onwards we walked to the fort, we had decided to hire a guide as the fort is so big and has people living inside its walls. Our guide explained the quirks of the fort, one of which being that the road and gates leading up to the fort are in a special formation so if you're stood at one gate you cannot see the next one ahead. We went inside a Jain Temple and saw hundreds of little statues carved from stone, light dappled through gaps in the ceiling. Our next stop was at a viewpoint where we could see our hotel in the distance and the desert. We could certainly tell that we were in a city in the desert too, it was almost like the fort was made from sand and the temperature was over 40 degrees celsius. The alleyways inside the fort were decorated with paintings of elephants and colourful doorways but it was obvious that this was a well lived in community rather than a preserved museum like other forts and palaces that we had explored in Rajasthan. The guide walked us to another viewpoint which was much quieter and where we could have our photograph taken before leading us to a family owned workshop where jewellery was made. We didn't feel pressured to buy anything which was lucky and after a quick look around caught a tuk tuk back to the hotel, by this point my energy was waining and the heat and lack of food was making me feel faint.

Hundreds Of Figures Adorn The Walls Of The Jain Temple In Jaisalmer In India

Intricate Carving In A Jain Temple In Jaisalmer, India

We enjoyed a drink on the hotel roof terrace where we could see the fort lit up at night in the distance. Perhaps it was a mistake coming to the desert in the height of summer but the beautiful hotel had served as a perfect place to be when poorly and the city, our last stop in Rajasthan had been a hassle-free and tourist-free destination. 

Us In Jaisalmer In India

Next: A long journey back to Delhi and onwards to Amritsar; a city in the state of Punjab.

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Have you been to Jaisalmer? If so, what did you think? Maybe you're planning a trip? I've got tonnes of advice and tips I can share. Let me know in the comments below. 

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Jodhpur, India

Our favourite eatery in Udaipur; Yummy Yoga had kindly opened their doors early so that we could eat breakfast before leaving. We gorged on sweet porridge before taking a tuk tuk to the bus stop on a dusty street corner. We had to wait for a little while and there was some confusion as to which bus we needed to board but eventually ours arrived and we jumped on. It was a mixed sleeper and seated bus, we had seated tickets. The journey wasn't too bad though quite hot and once in Jodhpur we were dropped off on the side of a busy motorway miles from the city centre itself. We bargained with a tuk tuk driver who drove us to the clock tower, a popular spot for tourists. We reached the clock tower a few minutes from our guesthouse when our tuk tuk began to splutter until it stopped completely. A huge swarm of locals surrounded us which was a tad overwhelming to say the least. The tuk tuk wouldn't go and so despite not having a clue how to navigate the maze of streets to our guesthouse we paid up and said we'd walk. Luckily, a few minutes later the driver had got his motor working again and had caught up with us, whizzing us to our guesthouse door. 

Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur, India

An Interior Courtyard At Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur, India

The room was a little dismal and the air conditioner was broken, the heat was intense, as it was everyday and I was feeling low after a difficult journey. The owner said he'd get it fixed in a few hours so we ventured out for some food. Despite Jodhpur being the second largest city in the state of Rajasthan it appeared that most of the cafés and restaurants were closed for low season. Many of the narrow roads were being dug up for work and the swarms of motorbikes made the place feel claustrophobic and chaotic. All of the best reviewed places were closed so we ate on the roof terrace of the restaurant opposite the guesthouse, owned by the same family. The food was shocking, so much so that I couldn't eat much of mine. We returned to the guesthouse and moved to a dark room at the back of the building with no windows. It was dingy but I wasn't too fussed as at least it was cool and we would get a good nights sleep. I had a feeling that we wouldn't be staying too long in Jodhpur anyway.

Walking The Steep Slope Of Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur, India

Breakfast the next morning wasn't the best, I was beginning to see a theme with food in Jodhpur. To save our strength we took a tuk tuk up the hill to Mehrangarh Fort which overlooks the city and is one of the largest forts in India. Inside the fort were rooms displaying a variety of historic pieces, from silver to carriages that would have carried the rich fort occupants. Some of the rooms were so decadently decorated, with shimmering glass, colourful jewels and intricately woven rugs and fabrics. As we climbed the stairs to each room the views outside became better and better and the breeze was cooler and stronger. It was a welcome relief to stand in the shade with the wind breaking through the stifling heat. We took a walk to see the canons and temple though we didn't go in before walking downhill back to our guesthouse. It's amazing how tiring it is to walk in such extreme heat, I was glad to reach the shade of the buildings in the city and admired the pretty shades of blue that many of the houses and shops were painted. We tried our luck with a different place for dinner where I had a simple dal fry, a sauce made from chickpeas served with naan bread. 

A Pigeon Admires The View From Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur, India

The Blue City Of Jodhpur In India

The next morning I wasn't feeling well at all, it appeared that I'd finally succumbed to 'Delhi belly' though I wasn't surprised judging by the awful food we'd had since arriving in Jodhpur. Unfortunately we had a long travel day ahead so I had to take some tablets and get on with it with horror stories running through my head of what could happen. Luckily I was fine and we arrived in Jaisalmer by bus, our last stop in Rajasthan. 

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Have you been to Jodhpur? If so, what did you think? Maybe you're planning a trip? I've got tonnes of advice and tips I can share. Let me know in the comments below. 

If you enjoyed reading then please click the heart at the bottom, share or better still leave me a comment, I love reading them.

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Jaipur, India

Bright Indian Dress and The Amber Fort in Jaipur, India

We arrived in the Pink City of Jaipur on May 16th by train, a much more comfortable experience than the one we endured from Delhi to Agra. Our small hotel was a few minutes walk from the station, upon arrival we found our accommodation to be a little bit dire, the air conditioning wasn't working so we switched rooms, even so the squat toilet and lack of water in the bathroom indicated to me that our stay would not be a pleasant one. The next day we ventured out to Jantar Mantar a place of science founded in 1728. Jantar Mantar means instrument of calculation, there were a variety of instruments dotted around which looked like sculptures but were in fact used to calculate the time and date. 

Sat under the shade of a tree with tiny vibrant green leaves we heard the continuous beeping noise from traffic outside the complex walls, chipmunks tussled on the patchy grass and sweet little birds hopped around looking for morsels of food. 

An Instrument of Science at Jantar Mantar in Jaipur, India

Quiet Time in Jantar Mantar in Jaipur, India

After, we went to an Indian coffee house for an authentic local lunch, the waiter was wearing a rather unique hat and while service was not overwhelmingly friendly the food was good and the experience felt off the beaten track.

The next day we went to see the Amber Fort which situated just outside the city was the main reason we wanted to visit Jaipur. We took a tuk tuk there, the fort was perched high on a hill and looked very imposing and impressive. The walls of the fort snaked across the landscape which reminded me somewhat of a miniature version of The Great Wall of China. We climbed the steep slope to the fort, many tourists take elephants to mimic the feeling of being an Indian maharaja though for ethical reasons we decided against it. To our surprise and delight we learned that entry was free just for today, with the entrance fee saved we decided to hire a guide to make the most of the visit. Our lovely guide, a friendly local chap took us inside the fort gates where I was given a beautifully perfumed rose and we were both given a bindi which is a small dot of red pigment placed on the forehead. 

Amber Fort in Jaipur, India

The Leafy Courtyard in Amber Fort, Jaipur in India

The fort was truly a place of beauty. The decoration was so delicate, paintings and jewels adorned the walls. There was an area covered in hundreds of mirror shards reflecting light and colourful reflections all around. Mysterious passages led here, there and everywhere, many of which we walked through to visit a different nook, balcony or room. Our guide showed us the ancient water system comprised of pulleys and wells, inside a huge well were hundreds of sleeping bats. The views from the fort were wonderful, and the mixture of art, landscape and friendly guide led me to state that this was my favourite place that we had seen in India so far. After our very informative tour we said farewell to our guide and after a break in the shade wandered back around the fort for some more photographs. We came across the German family that we had seen in a café in Agra and stopped for a chat before heading back to the tuk tuk stand where we had to haggle very hard for a good price, even resorting to the 'turn and walk away' tactic to get a fair deal. 

Interior Garden at Amber Fort in Jaipur, India

The Amber Fort Walls Snake Across The Hills in Jaipur, India

Craig had found a restaurant called Natraj whilst doing research so we went there for lunch. We hadn't realised just how nice the restaurant was until we went inside, it was elegantly decorated and waiters were on stand by to attend to every whim. Of course, such service was reflected in the price but as we were already seated we decided to treat ourselves and stay. After a delicious lunch we were given sugar and aniseed with our bill, a simple treat which satisfied our sweet tooth cravings. 

An Ancient Water System and Sleeping Bats at Amber Fort in Jaipur, India

Interior Carvings at Amber Fort in Jaipur, India 

The next day we packed to leave and endured quite an ordeal, possibly our worst experience whilst travelling. When it came to settle the bill there was a dispute. Craig had already paid the manager for the first night as well as the breakfasts and dinners that we'd ordered as room service. With no manager around we received a leaving bill higher than expected and asked to speak to the manager just to clarify as it had not been itemised. The two guys at reception kept laughing at our request to speak to the manager and refused which left us in a predicament. Our train was scheduled to leave shortly and we weren't sure what to do. There was obviously a bit of a language barrier, as the minutes passed their unwillingness to get a manager left us frustrated and so we offered to pay what we thought was owed and email the manager afterwards to settle the dispute. Craig put down the money, a few rupees short of the bill and tried to leave, they grabbed at his arm and bag and I started to panic as they were getting aggressive. We managed to leave the hotel and walk down the street, they both chased after us, waving the bill in our faces, shouting at anyone who would listen. As somebody who hates confrontation I was surprised to find that I shouted back when one of the men forcibly grabbed my arm. A tuk tuk driver passed and we jumped on to drive the few minutes down the road to the station, my heart was pounding. As we boarded the train I felt anxious, would they come looking for us? I felt awful, it looked as though we had done a runner without paying. A mixture of confusion on both parts about the bill, our panic at missing the train and their unwillingness to get the manager to clarify had led to a horrible situation where I really thought they might hurt us. After thinking about the situation for hours as we travelled on to Pushkar I suddenly remembered that we had ordered some food on room service after Craig had paid the manager meaning that we did indeed owe a few rupees more. I burst in to tears upon realising that we were wrong. Their actions were still uncalled for, but with hindsight why hadn't we just paid the money and been done with it? We emailed the manager of the hotel and the booking site we'd gone through to explain what had happened and didn't receive a reply from either. It had been a hard lesson learned, always take note of money paid and have proof, don't try and settle a bill on check out while in a hurry and if required, just pay what's asked even if you think you don't owe it if it means avoiding an intimidating situation. 

Craig and I at The Amber Fort in Jaipur, India

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Have you been to Jaipur? If so, what did you think? Maybe you're planning a trip? I've got tonnes of advice and tips I can share. Let me know in the comments below. 

If you enjoyed reading then please click the heart at the bottom, share or better still leave me a comment, I love reading them.

[If you are receiving this via email firstly thank you for subscribing! Secondly please click 'read in browser' to leave a comment and click the heart if you would like to. If you're not subscribed and would like to be, head to the contact page and leave your email.]